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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: FFA September 2005 Kevin Evanson, Jaime Bohle
Page Views: 347 total, 4/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Aug 2, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This route starts left of Carrots for Everyone to the right of a large block that is about 25' off the ground (the top of this block is the 'Room for a View' ledge). The section up to the ledge is a bit blocky and dirty but pretty easy terrain. Above the ledge it takes the line of bolts on a slightly overhanging face for an additional 60 feet to a pair of bolted anchors. This section is consistent, pumpy and some of the best 5.10 climbing at Ozone, IMO.

Location

See Above

Protection

8 QD's. There are no bolts until above the ledge so you may want to bring a 1-2" piece or two for the start.

Photos

Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
 
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
 
Definitely a classic! Loved the slight overhang at the end. The holds were great and the portions which required gear were moderate so run-outs aren't an issue. The overall length seems to be around 100' so you definitely get immersed in the process. Can't wait to get back on it!

New stainless steel rap rings at the top, courtesy of Micah. Jun 8, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10a
Pretty mellow climbing up the direct start to the ledge. Didn't place any gear. Top half is great! Jun 4, 2016
Matt Baker
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Matt Baker   Portland, OR
  5.10b
Does not look that great but is one of the better climbs I did today! Just made it down on a 60, pretty awesome! Feb 17, 2015
Kev
Kev  
I have added a bolt on the first pitch or lower half of this climb. No more ground fall potential. Aug 13, 2014
Kev
Kev  
For surely not 10.c Jul 3, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10b
The only committing move getting up to the ledge cannot be protected with anything nearby. Even if you did, it would have to be with a long runner, or the rope drag would be terrible. I would second the idea of doing the first half of Dirty Jugs as the primary approach for this route. Aug 29, 2012
Kev
Kev  
This climb is 10.b if not 10.a. I am not sure who is upgrading them. Aug 22, 2011
another Chad
  5.10c
another Chad  
  5.10c
One can connect the first half of Dirty Jugs with Sweeping Beauty, making a fully bolted route. Like many of the climbs at Ozone, a 50m rope will not get you to the ground.

Chad Aug 2, 2011