North Face
5.8,
Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.7 from 64
votes
FA: unknown
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Silver Star & W…
> Burgundy Spire
Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
P1-2 scramble up 4th with the occasional mid 5th move to the broad sandy ledge connecting with paisano pinnacle.
P3-4 climb up the right side of the wide open bowl, being careful of the loose and exfoliating flakes. Aim for the obvious horn with tat around it above. You can go pretty much anywhere. I started up the center, got sketched by the looseness and traversed to the left, then climbed back right on decomposing thin shit with no gear. the right side looked more straightforward and thats the way the rap route goes. the top is really fun 5.8
At this point the route reaches a big ledge, giving you many options. The most straightforward route climbs off the far right side, after scrambling under a chockstone head up for 2 pitches of 5.8ish climbing to the summit. This is also the way the rap route goes.
However, if you have the time I recommend heading off to the left once you hit the ledge. (This may be part of the corkscrew route, someone else can chime in and tell me if I'm right or wrong)
P5 Aim for the clean handcrack in a flare which is about 5.fun, or scramble around it at low 5th to the left. gain the ridgetop and head out for some stellar exposed 5.7-8 face climbing complete with a original sketch 1/4in bolt put in 50 or so years ago. the climbing isn't hard, just wild and fun. belay at a slung block.
P6 Continue up the ridge, making fun moves up the sharp arete to a perfect handcrack. let out a few ecstatic yells and then get ready for the semi unpleasant part. downclimbing. there are 3 or 4 downclimbs, all can be easily followed by the 2nd if precautions are taken (don't be a dick and skip clipping tat or placing gear if you're leading) go as far as you can until rope drag becomes unbearable and belay. Wildly exposed 5.7 with annoying downclimbs.
P7 (or maybe 8 if you didn't go far enough you may have to do another short traversing pitch) There's a fun looking 5.10 offwidth that goes right to the summit if you hauled the # 6 along or are comfortable soloing. otherwise keep scrambling right till you intersect the route that goes off the right side of the big ledge. Climb the final left leaning wide crack to the ridge crest and walk over to the summit block. The rap anchor might be in need of new webbing. plan accordingly.
Descent
You can make it down with a 60 but you might have to do a little downclimbing in places. having a 70 was nice. lots of places to get the rope stuck, be careful when you pull.
Protection
single rack to 3 inches was adequate. bring an extra .75 and 1 if 5.8 is near your limit.
Approach
Approach to base of route: follow the trail to Burgundy Col, look to your right, towards the mountain you are here to climb. The route start should be obvious.
To reach the start of Paisano head right before reaching the pass to the base of Paisano. From the top of Paisano continue climbing until you reach the top of Burgundy. The route should be obvious.
[Hide Photo] Route overlay showing the Paisano (WR) + Burgundy (NF) link-up
[Hide Photo] A view of the N face of Burgundy of the 3rd and 4th pitches. The climbing team shown broke the 3rd pitch into two smaller pitches. I'd recommend climbing directly to the ledge where the upper climb…
[Hide Photo] Sam on the summit of Burgundy Spire, with Chianti Spire behind.
[Hide Photo] Looking down on the summit of Paisano Pinnacle and the big sandy ledge connecting the two spires to the right from atop the pitch 4 belay.
[Hide Photo] This is the large chockstone you go under while walking across the large ledge following pitch 4 if finishing via the 5.8 pitches to the summit.
[Hide Photo] Leah Pappajohn on the last pitch in smokey summertime conditions
[Hide Photo] big ledge atop P4
[Hide Photo] Above the "scary slab" is this impeccable 5.8 hand crack that leads to an exhilarating 5.9+ squeeze. Best pitch on the route!
[Hide Photo] If you choose the "scary slab" option as indicated in Ian's ST guide (which is a heady move of 5.8 protected by a micro nut) you will be rewarded with a stellar 5.8 hand crack and thi…
[Hide Photo] The final crack to the top.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3 of the North Face of Burgundy Spire.
[Hide Photo] The second to last rappel. The rappels bring you down to near the start of the route.
June Lake, CA
Bellingham, WA
Seattle, Washington
Bozeman, MT
To reach the start of paisano head right before reaching the pass to the base of paisano. From the top of paisano continue climbing until you reach the top of burgundy. The route should be obvious. Dec 9, 2021