Amphitheatre Crack
5.9,
Trad, 125 ft (38 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 31
votes
FA: Nov. 2010
New York
> Adirondacks
> G: Indian Lake…
> Crane Mountain
> Black Arches Wall
Description
The crux is the first 15'. The climbing continues to be interesting, though easier, after this.
An excellent line for the 1st 70' - which is why there are now anchors at that position.
The original ascent climbed all the way to the top, through questionable rock, poor protection, and damp sections.
NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.
Location
The Amphitheatre is the set-back section of cliff, about 100 yards wide, between the Isobuttress and the Tripe Buttress. This crack lies near the center of the area, identifiable as a thin crack that sweeps right 20' up, with a couple of small rock "steps" leading up to its base.
Protection
Full set of cams from tiny to #3 C4; small tricams, a nut or two.
There is now a 2-bolt anchor at 70'; the rock above this is crumbly and dirty, so most climbers opt to finish the pitch here. These anchors also make it easy to TR neighboring routes.
Orford, NH
Las Vegas, NV
That said, it's that one move, transitioning from layback off right to a big stem off left that shuts a lot of folks down. If you can apply a good pc of pro for that move, go for it!
There are a handful of tricky moves afterward, but none so intimidating as that 1st one, and gear is everywhere. May 16, 2012
Saranac Lake, NY
Maybe it's "soft" for the grade (in the sense that it doesn't take much finger or arm strength) if you just commit to the move (from layback right to stemming left), but to me both feet felt pretty tenuous, until I made the next little step up -- so I can understand why some people find it difficult to commit. Aug 7, 2012