PRINT: Rock Climb Start From Scratch, Squamish

Start From Scratch

5.10c, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.3 from 19 votes
FA: Kris Wild, Jen Reilly 2000
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

(from comments)

P1. Scramble up to the base of a steep wall with two large trees in front. Behind the left hand tree are parallel finger cracks that turn into shallow opposing corners. (Think of a very shallow chimney). Climb this past one bolt to a ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.10b, 20m

P2. Step right and face climb up past a bolt, then traverse right into the main corner. Up the corner to the roof that's easier than it appears, continue up the low angle crack above for 10 m, then step right to the bolted belay of Calculus Crack

Location

100 Ft uphill from the start of St. Vitus' Dance and other routes on Baseline Ledge.

Protection

Finger gear and hand pieces for the final roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

K. Carver
portland

5.10c

Yes, it is kind of dirty. But I thought this was a fun (read: more challenging) way to start all the other routes going up this swath toward First Peak. Doing the 5.10 bulgy crack P2 above kept the variation spices on the warmer side, compared to the nearby Calculus Crack.

If you climb it, they will come! In other words it's a bit dirty, but if it got more travel it would start to clean up, and then get more travel, and then clean up more, and then get more travel, and then... See how it works? Aug 17, 2015

KrisW
Squamish BC

The description given above is actually for the first pitch Calculus Direct, then continuing into the second pitch of Start From Scratch. SFS actually begins another 15m up and left of CD.

P1. Scramble up to the base of a steep wall with two large trees in front. Behind the left hand tree are parallel finger cracks that turn into shallow opposing corners. (Think of a very shallow chimney). Climb this past one bolt to a ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.10b, 20m
P2. Step right and face climb up past a bolt, then traverse right into the main corner. Up the corner to the roof that's easier than it appears, continue up the low angle crack above for 10 m, then step right to the bolted belay of Calculus Crack.

This route is a bit scruffy as of 2016, but is climbable when dry. New route activity around it will likely improve its curb appeal. Nov 20, 2016