PRINT: Rock Climb Sickle, Squamish

Sickle

5.9-, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 2.3 from 22 votes
FA: Bob Woodsworth, Ashlyn Armour Brown 1962
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

p1 (5.7) - Climb the first pitch of Diedre to the bolted anchor (slab and jugs).

p2 (5.7) - From the anchor move up and right towards the large tree into a slab corner that arches to the right (slab and irregular finger crack) and build a gear belay near the tree growing out of the crack.

p3 (5.9) - Pull over the small roof around a small tree growing in the crack and move up and right before traversing back left along a crack towards a large boulder on the ledge above. DO NOT go as far as the bolt on over the rainbow. As the crack disappears tricky slab moves lead up to the ledge (crux) for a tree belay.

p4-5 (5.7) - Walk as far left and up on the ledge as possible and climb the right-facing corner in two pitches (gear anchor) to a horizontal crack under a small roof and traverse to the right.

Location

Start at Diedre and move right at first pitch anchors, staying left of the bolted slab line, Over the Rainbow.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 2".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ashort
Las Vegas, NV

The arching corner is fun, but that's about it. A lot of dirty climbing for one good pitch. May 5, 2015

M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA

After P3 (the short 5.9 pitch), move left on the ledge and clamber up the dirt clods and loose rocks (careful!). Don't build an anchor on one of the trees (I did)---keep going up through the bushes to where the dihedral begins, and there is a bolted anchor around eye level (not equipped for rap).

From the bolted anchor to the finish ledge is two full 60m pitches. If you build an anchor too low (on the trees instead of the bolts) and are using a 60m rope, you may have to do a third mini pitch or simul a bit to get up to the ledge.

Also, agreed that it's dirty, but the 5.7 arch pitch is pretty cool. Aug 12, 2016

Serge S
Seattle, WA

No need to wait in line on Diedre - it is fairly easy to move over to Sickle after P1 of Over The Rainbow. Aug 28, 2016

Kate Lynn
Vancouver, BC

Pitch 2 & 3 can be linked with 70m, however this leads to significant rope drag on the crux moves. Sep 23, 2016

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA

5.9-

This is worth doing for the Sickle pitch. I wanted to try the last 2 pitches to see what they are like, they are like Diedre but very, very dirty. Mar 5, 2018

Aaron Nash
North Bend, WA

Fun route; the sickle pitch was a little more heads up than I was expecting due to how wet/dirty it was. Did it in October and there were lots of leaves and dirt all over everything. Cleaned up a bit as we went.
I'd recommend pitching it slightly differently than what the description and guidebook suggest.

End P1 at the tree mentioned in P2 above. This gets you away from the Diedre clusterF. From here combine P2 and 3, and belay off the big ledge. Much more natural/better belays. Works with a 60. Simul the last two pitches; they're easy. Oct 29, 2018

Mike B

A couple of route notes of this dusty old classic:
- P2 and 3 can be linked easily with a 70m from the first belay on Diedre.
- if Diedre is busy, it is easy to climb P1 of Over the Rainbow and then connect into P2 of Sickle.
- I don’t know what the comment above is about there being bolts at the base of P4. Didn’t see them. Just go to the last big tree at the top of the ledge and belay from there.

P2 and 3 are very good - P2 is a thinner, arching version of the first corner pitch on Diedre, but a little dirty and after any rain would be slimy. P4 and 5 aren’t worth it - just finish on OTR. Jul 23, 2023