Type: Trad, Sport, 57 ft
FA: Spike Lynch
Page Views: 833 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 29, 2011
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Featuring more of the fun plates and holds typical of the left side of Mosaic Rock, this relatively new addition to the wall finds a good balance in difficulty between Mama Jugs to its left and Techtonics to its right.

Start from the same curving, small ledge that marks the start of Techtonics but head up a smallish finger crack feature to the high first bolt. While the distance is significant, the climbing isn't too difficult and good pro options exist in the finger crack. Awkward and thinner moves comprise the crux around the second bolt. Continue up and right to a left-facing flake feature where some gear placements can be found. Cruise the up the flake to the third bolt and, eventually, the anchor.

Location

Between Mama Jugs and Techtonics. The bolts are visible. A single 60m rope gets you down.

Protection

While it could be moderately well protected just using the three bolts on the route, a small to medium gear placements can be found between bolts. A two bolt anchor awaits at the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Three bolts only on this route. I would bring a small rack of supplemental gear. I have heard that Spike Lynch did the first ascent. Aug 8, 2011
Keith B. Ives
Washington, DC
5.9+
Keith B. Ives   Washington, DC
5.9+
We went ahead and climbed up the chicken heads to the right of the anchors to create a second pitch. Go straight up to a ledge, pull the "Mama Jugs" to gain the summit. Oct 31, 2011
With a 70 m rope, you can belay from the ground below the slabs. Feb 15, 2015