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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 57 ft
FA: Spike Lynch
Page Views: 778 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 29, 2011
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Featuring more of the fun plates and holds typical of the left side of Mosaic Rock, this relatively new addition to the wall finds a good balance in difficulty between Mama Jugs to its left and Techtonics to its right.

Start from the same curving, small ledge that marks the start of Techtonics but head up a smallish finger crack feature to the high first bolt. While the distance is significant, the climbing isn't too difficult and good pro options exist in the finger crack. Awkward and thinner moves comprise the crux around the second bolt. Continue up and right to a left-facing flake feature where some gear placements can be found. Cruise the up the flake to the third bolt and, eventually, the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

Between Mama Jugs and Techtonics. The bolts are visible. A single 60m rope gets you down.

Protection [Suggest Change]

While it could be moderately well protected just using the three bolts on the route, a small to medium gear placements can be found between bolts. A two bolt anchor awaits at the top.

Photos

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Three bolts only on this route. I would bring a small rack of supplemental gear. I have heard that Spike Lynch did the first ascent. Aug 8, 2011
Keith B. Ives
Washington, DC
5.9+
Keith B. Ives   Washington, DC
5.9+
We went ahead and climbed up the chicken heads to the right of the anchors to create a second pitch. Go straight up to a ledge, pull the "Mama Jugs" to gain the summit. Oct 31, 2011
With a 70 m rope, you can belay from the ground below the slabs. Feb 15, 2015

More About Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs)

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