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Oedipal Complex

5.12b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 13 votes
FA: Eric Kubiak & Craig Hadley (1992)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32; Little Si > World Wall Group > World Wall

Description

Tricky, crimpy and balance-intensive climbing over a bulge for 3 bolts bring you to the shared finish with Jug or Not. Sucker holds galore.

Location

On the bulging face between Dreaming of a Life of Ease and Jug or Not. Shares anchors with Jug or Not.

Protection

6 bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MilesC
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] ... wtf? I just got completely thrashed by this. I lowered down to scrub off the cobwebs, brush the holds and install draws and then got thrashed. Felt hard, cryptic, and thin for the grade. Aug 28, 2016
Nick Drake
Kent, WA
[Hide Comment] All bolts and anchor replaced with stainless courtesy of a grant from WARP, washingtonanchors.org/, please consider making a donation as each dollar goes toward hardware purchase. All work and tools are on a volunteer basis.

You can pre hang draws climbing jug or note or reptiles to the furthest right anchor (at a stance directly below long perma draws of oval orifice) . Feb 24, 2020
MilesC
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the new bolts Nick! Inspired me to come back for revenge. I think 12b is fine, though the climbing is quite cryptic at first. A short bulletproof sequence makes the low angle choss topout worth it... once. May 24, 2020
Nick Drake
Kent, WA
[Hide Comment] I was going to come back with "a birdie told me" comment on here about the grade :) Glad it feels like a true 12b when you're not over a tiny bent up SMC hanger for the first bolt now! Jul 9, 2020
Chris Spalding
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Tried this for the first time last weekend. I think "worth it... once" is the appropriate description for the climb, haha. I'll try to redpoint this thing but the loose blocks up top are pretty scary imo! Definitely cryptic but easier than hang it out to dry if I remember that boulder problem correctly. Pretty cool holds on the crux of this thing! It's unfortunate that the hard climbing is so short-lived, otherwise it could be pretty good!

Thanks for replacing the hardware, Nick. I never would have tried this thing in its prior state. Dec 17, 2020
Chris Stocking
SLC, UT
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Another vote for this being a worthwhile, oft-overlooked climb! Feels *very* hard for the grade at first, but yields quickly once you start to distinguish the actual holds from all the miserable sucker holds that look chalked but are just colored that way naturally. 12b is probably fair, though I did think the crux section (first 3 bolts) was both harder and considerably longer than, for example, the crux section on Hang it Out to Dry or Bust the Rhythm.

Also, thanks for the new bolts! They look great and inspire a lot of confidence on what can feel like a committing lead with cruxes so near the ground. May 31, 2021
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] +1 for the route being great, just wish it was longer. People get spooked by slippery feet and sucker holds, so their ego tells them to not feel bad cause it must obviously be a bad route :P

I think with beta it's easier than other 12b-s on the wall, although it might be a bit reachy before the 2nd bolt. Sep 12, 2023