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Stradler
5.8,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: Unknown- Sean Brown and Arie Leeflang June 3, 2011?
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> E Gate Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Probably wont be high on anyones tick list, but we were there, and it looked fun. Stradler climbs the off-fist to groping-chimney yawn left of Keelhaul directly behind an old pine that is occasionally used to rap the fourth class terrain into the East Gate Gully (see photo here:
mountainproject.com/v/10722… ). Luckily the outer lip of the crack is positive and steep enough to avoid full body penetration into the granite grinder. Liebacks and saddling are the play with a certain level of grit-groveling is to be expected. Numbers 4, 5, and 6 C2s were all handy. Belay from blocks on a ledge. Rap from these same blocks with a chunk of webbing.
Location
Climb to the top of Tingey's Torture and scramble to the base of the Axis of Evil. From the base of the Axis drop over the ridge into the East Gate area to a fine mountain goat nook, scrambling down a hundred feet or-so until Stradler and Keelhaul are obvious on the right.
If you come in from the Peeler side/Pawn trail, just cut over when you're about even with the climbs. (This is the fastest way if you only have time to do these climbs.) Alternatively, make your way up the East Gate gully, passing Desperado, and climbing the next gully north and west.
The routes are at the head of this gully. Keelhaul is well-visible from the Winter Diversion area of the Black Peeler.
Protection
Bring some big stuff or just run it out.
![Sean at the base of the skinny Keelhaul with the obvious man-eater of Stradler beyond.]()
[Hide Photo] Sean at the base of the skinny Keelhaul with the obvious man-eater of Stradler beyond.
![If you come in from the Peeler side/Pawn trail, just cut over when you're about even with the climbs.]()
[Hide Photo] If you come in from the Peeler side/Pawn trail, just cut over when you're about even with the climbs.
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Broomfield, CO
Smog Lake City, UT