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Routes in g. The Great Buttress

Dean's List S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dean's List (arĂȘte variation) S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Book T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tales from the Crypt T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Three Buttresses (first pitch) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Buttresses (first pitch, variation 2) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mel Hamel and Tom Stryker, Sep 1979.
Page Views: 1,349 total, 18/month
Shared By: Justin Compton on Jul 27, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

The climb is on the Great Buttress, it's the obvious bolted line on the left. A little runout and pumpy at the top. BE KIND TO THE CACTI!!! Did the upper pitches once with 3 good friends and a couple cold beers in tow. Worth the effort of tricky gear and route finding through questionable rock. I only remember one bolt after the cactus ledge and then making a skecthy belay on the next large ledge. I ended up getting a couple pieces in and clearing a beautiful crack out of vegetation on the final slab to the top. Belay off the fence at the top and answer questions from non-climbers while bringing your partner(s) up.

P1: 5.10a PG. 60 feet, 3 bolts.
P2/3: 5.7? R. 60 feet?, 2 bolts?.

Protection

Standard rack, 3 bolts, bolted belay.

Photos

This route had zero bolts on the first ascent. Jan 24, 2017
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10a PG13
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10a PG13
Good climbing through some positive--but polished--holds. I would suggest a PG-13 rating due to to the proximity to the dying tree. If someone were to peel off the final mantle to Cactus Ledge, there's a good chance you'll be pulling tree limbs out of your arse!! Dec 28, 2013
Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
  5.10a R
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
  5.10a R
Did the upper pitches once with 3 good friends and a couple cold beers in tow. Worth the effort of tricky gear and route finding through questionable rock. I only remember one bolt after the cactus ledge and then making a skecthy belay on the next large ledge. I ended up getting a couple peices in and clearing a beautiful crack out of vegetation on the final slab to the top. Jan 18, 2012