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Dat-Mantel

5.10b, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 28 votes
FA: 1976 Rich Perch, Kevin Bein, Barbara Devine, Rich Ross
New York > Gunks > Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth

Description

Start at the vertical crack in the middle of the Mantel boulder. Climb up past a thin right facing flake to the roof above. Go up through the roof at a very small left facing edge (crux).

After getting established above the roof, go straight up to the top of the block.  There is a bolted anchor halfway between Dat and Dis Mantel -- look carefully for it.

Location

On the Mantel boulder just left of Dis-Mantel

Protection

Standard gunks rack plus micro cams and a micro nut. The gear is a little bit fiddly in the beginning of the pitch.

There is a new anchor halfway between Dat and Dis Mantel -- look carefully for it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Where is dat hold? Lynn on Dat Mantel.
[Hide Photo] Where is dat hold? Lynn on Dat Mantel.
Da move on Dat Mantel.
[Hide Photo] Da move on Dat Mantel.
looking up at Dat-Mantel
[Hide Photo] looking up at Dat-Mantel

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian
North Kingstown, RI
[Hide Comment] Takes a gold Camalot below the roof on a long runner and a red Camalot clipped short immediately above the lip of the roof in a horizontal. You can also get a #1 blue Metolius in the horizontal to back it up. Jul 30, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] I added a sling to the thread under the scary looking block on the top of this today. Only mentioning it incase anyone else decides to do the same. There is some kind of rodent or maybe a bat living in there and it didn't like it when I stuck my hand in.
Anyway, the climbing was fun and fairly easy up to the roof. The crux is just pulling over... Oct 8, 2011