End of the Tether
Trad, 60 ft,
Avg: 3 from 2
> WM: Kancamagus…
> Sundown Ledge
> Main Cliff
A great route not often done. The crack begins about 6 feet in the air and most people aid the beginning (A0 11d); it has gone free at 12a (by sum wikkid tall guy who did a 1 arm pull-up). Gain the crack and layback up to a small rest ledge. Traverse right and pull a tough move to gain the upper part of the climb (where you will find two pitons); you get a pretty good rest. then continue traversing right, on small feet and ok underclings in the crack (hope you don't have fat sausage fingers like I do). then zip up the dihedral to a cluster f*** anchor (pretty standard for the area - i always trust em). then lower yourself down to the roof and watch your second.
I think it is the fingery sister climb to the Bridge of Khazad-Dûm at Cathedral. It is a great climb that most people don't do - it just takes a little bit of work.
Not sure if the end of this one will stay dry in the rain.
Start on the boulder under the right roof and to the left of Toothless Grin.
Small nuts, small cams, a 6 foot tall friend to place the gear in the bottom, and a smile