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End of the Tether

5.11d, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff

Description

A great route not often done. The crack begins about 6 feet in the air and most people aid the beginning (A0 11d); it has gone free at 12a (by sum wikkid tall guy who did a 1 arm pull-up). Gain the crack and layback up to a small rest ledge. Traverse right and pull a tough move to gain the upper part of the climb (where you will find two pitons); you get a pretty good rest. then continue traversing right, on small feet and ok underclings in the crack (hope you don't have fat sausage fingers like I do). then zip up the dihedral to a cluster f*** anchor (pretty standard for the area - i always trust em). then lower yourself down to the roof and watch your second.

I think it is the fingery sister climb to the Bridge of Khazad-Dûm at Cathedral. It is a great climb that most people don't do - it just takes a little bit of work.

Not sure if the end of this one will stay dry in the rain.

Location

Start on the boulder under the right roof and to the left of Toothless Grin.

Protection

Small nuts, small cams, a 6 foot tall friend to place the gear in the bottom, and a smile

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

john strand
southern colo
 
[Hide Comment] Great add ! Russ Clune did a one arm start (he's pretty tall,strong too.) But trust me you can do half a pull and then fire in the other hand.
Well geared with work, pumpy. Jul 26, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
[Hide Comment] I was belaying Russ the day he freed that opening move (1984/85?). Yes, he's pretty tall and mighty strong, but nonetheless, that tiny jam that he pulled up on (after a little jump as I remember) was breathtaking to behold. The rest of us got a boost to keep the opening moves at a more reasonable (and less tendon-shredding) grade. The rest of the pitch is no slouch, either, with quite the sting in the tail around the final roof. Glad to "have done it"...can just walk under it and smile, now. And yes, it should stay dry in the rain. Aug 27, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
[Hide Comment] So a one arm pull-up off a small jam equals 12a? Yeah right! Aug 28, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
[Hide Comment] I think ANY one arm equals at least 12A ! Aug 28, 2013