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Routes in Wango's Workshop
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Missing Tooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roadtrip Prerequisite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tomb Raider T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn |
| Page Views: | 272 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Brian S on Jul 26, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Details
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Description
It can be climbed in three short pitches.
P1 (5.9). Clip a bolt, then follow a left-leaning crack.
P2 (5.7). Traverse left, and climb over a roof on good holds.
P3 (5.10b/c). Climb a vertical arete to a left-traversing arete to gain the summit of pyramid-shaped rock.
P1 (5.9). Clip a bolt, then follow a left-leaning crack.
P2 (5.7). Traverse left, and climb over a roof on good holds.
P3 (5.10b/c). Climb a vertical arete to a left-traversing arete to gain the summit of pyramid-shaped rock.
Truckee, CA
Update: I guessed wrong! Given the feedback, the last pitch is more 10b/c-ish. Fine by me. Jul 26, 2011
San Francisco, CA
A good warmup to this is to do the 5.8 one-pitch rightward crack next to this route, take a lunch break in the cool nook, and then proceed.
The first pitch felt easy for me at 5.9 in terms of restfulness between harder moves. In our overall fatigue for the week, we missed reading the left-traverse beta for P2, instead attempting to go straight up the left-facing corner crack (guessing this probably goes free at ~5.10b especially with gorilla hands/feet), where I got shot down before finding the correct and MUCH easier traverse to finish the pitch.
With a few slings, one can easily link P2 with the P3 aid pitch (which goes easily after pulling on a couple quickdraws) using a 60m rope. This will get you to the interesting mini-summit, with great views of the other Upper Blair formations. One short rap to the P2 bolts, followed by one longer rap (still well within a 60m rope's reach) will get you to the ground. Jul 18, 2013
Denver, CO
Denver CO
Broomfield, CO
Laramie, WY