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Routes in Wango's Workshop

Missing Tooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roadtrip Prerequisite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomb Raider T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn
Page Views: 222 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brian S on Jul 26, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

It can be climbed in three short pitches.

P1 (5.9). Clip a bolt, then follow a left-leaning crack.

P2 (5.7). Traverse left, and climb over a roof on good holds.

P3 (5.10b/c). Climb a vertical arete to a left-traversing arete to gain the summit of pyramid-shaped rock.

Location

There is a "V" of two crack on the south side of Wango's Workshop. It is the left one with a bolt at just off the ground. You can rap to the ground from the 2nd anchor with a 60m rope.

Protection

Traditional gear is needed for the first 2 pitches. The 3rd pitch has 3 bolts. All anchors are bolted.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
I was definitely wondering where the 5.9, or the 4-star part of the first pitch was. It's a fun line, and I appreciated the bolt, but that move is easier than a similar move on Oslund's Delight. Jun 24, 2017
A. Bandos
Broomfield
5.10b/c
A. Bandos   Broomfield
5.10b/c
The first pitch did not feel 9. The 5.8 crack to the right felt more difficult. Jul 4, 2016
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10b
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10b
The last pitch is no harder than .10c when holds around the arĂȘte are used at the start. Very nice. Jul 4, 2016
John Maurer
Denver, CO
 
John Maurer   Denver, CO
 
I'm all for safety, but the bolt on the first pitch is not necessary. The move itself is more 5.7 than 5.9 and is just a few feet off the ground. Gear is immediately available before any further commitment. I'm all for safety and making moderates accessible, but this seems to be a major departure from the Vedauwoo ethic. I'm not an amazing climber or anything, I have been climbing here since 1993 . . . just my 2 cents worth. Beautiful area. Aug 9, 2015
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
We did this on our last of 5 days in The Voo - a gorgeous day at Upper Blair with zero humans out there except us.

A good warmup to this is to do the 5.8 one-pitch rightward crack next to this route, take a lunch break in the cool nook, and then proceed.

The first pitch felt easy for me at 5.9 in terms of restfulness between harder moves. In our overall fatigue for the week, we missed reading the left-traverse beta for P2, instead attempting to go straight up the left-facing corner crack (guessing this probably goes free at ~5.10b especially with gorilla hands/feet), where I got shot down before finding the correct and MUCH easier traverse to finish the pitch.

With a few slings, one can easily link P2 with the P3 aid pitch (which goes easily after pulling on a couple quickdraws) using a 60m rope. This will get you to the interesting mini-summit, with great views of the other Upper Blair formations. One short rap to the P2 bolts, followed by one longer rap (still well within a 60m rope's reach) will get you to the ground. Jul 18, 2013
Brian S
 
Brian S  
 
This is a fun route. The first pitch had lichen in the crack. It should clean up with more ascents. "THE VOO: Rock Climbing in Vedauwoo" lists it as 5.9/A0. I onsight free climbed the A0 bolt ladder on the third pitch on 07/24/11. It is hard to grade onsights, but I would guess 5.11a.

Update: I guessed wrong! Given the feedback, the last pitch is more 10b/c-ish. Fine by me. Jul 26, 2011