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Routes in February Buttress

Ain't Misbehavin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aquarius T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ground Hog Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,411 total · 51/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Jul 25, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

Start with slabs and cracks to the right and uphill from the toe of the buttress. There is a very good 5.7 variation (Ain't Misbehavin') start to this climb which follows the blunt arete from the toe of the buttress.

Pitch 1: Aim for the large pine tree down and to the right of the big roofs (these roofs sit above the gully on the left side of the buttress). There is a 2-bolt anchor here. (5.6, 90')

Pitch 2: Head up and to the right of the steep difficulties, then back left above them. Continue up the blunt ridge to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. (5.5, 95')

Pitch 3: Easy cracks and slabs lead to a short section of steeper cracks and pockets. These end at a nice ledge with another 2-bolt anchor. (5.6, 110')

Pitch 4 (Not Recommended): There is another pitch above you if you want it. Head up the obvious lines to the top. The rock deteriorates (crumbly, mossy) quickly, but stays at the grade. Beware that there are no more bolted anchors above. (When I did it, we rapped off of a sling around a scary tottering choss pile.) I don't know for sure, but it looks likely that you can top out and walk off to the right. If you head up there, a bolt kit might be handy if you plan to rappel.

Location

Stay well right of the large roofs that are on the left side of the buttress.

Protection

Standard rack to 2" Bolted anchors (except for the optional pitch 4). 70m rope or doubles recommended for the lengthy rappels.

Descent: Rappel the route (possibly walk off from the top of pitch 4). Note that the first rappel is 110'.

Photos

rsmb
  5.6
rsmb  
  5.6
Definitely do the 5.7 variation for pitch one, it's a fun pitch of climbing. Climbed that way, pitches 1 and 3 are great, but pitch 2 is pretty forgettable. The belay station at the top of pitch 3 is a great little perch in a remarkable position. Apr 28, 2013
You can walk off the 4th pitch to the right. Not really worth it though. The second pitch is more fun if you head straight up the steepest line rather than around it. Jul 13, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
I'll cast my vote in favor of the 4th pitch, but I was soloing and not worrying about an anchor, gear, or a short pitch that wanders. Jul 31, 2016

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