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Routes in Fickle Finger of Fate
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Buttons are not toys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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One Eyed Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pacha Mama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple People Eater S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Charlie Kardaleff |
| Page Views: | 1,058 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | FCJohn on Jul 24, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
The longest and most direct line up the Fickle Finger. This route can and SHOULD be done as a single monster pitch with a 60M. Although if broken up the first pitch goes at 10c and the second at 11a. Super fun pocket pulling to a slab & dihedral that is very reminiscent of black velvet canyon in Red Rocks. While a bit dusty, this route is a classic and should not be missed.
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