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Utah
> Wasatch Range
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> Ogden
> Schoolroom
> Asbury Park
> Gangsta' Ledge
Rattlesnake Speedway
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Gangsta' Ledge
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A Country Mile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Father Roy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Giants of Science S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucky Town S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rattlesnake Speedway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Takeda Route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teardrops on the City S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tiny Giant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Colby Wayment/Eric Zschieshe |
| Page Views: | 1,048 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Colby Wayment on Jul 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Located just off to the right of Luck Town and Gangsta Ledge. This route climbs through the roof down low and up the rounded, overhanging bulge through the bolt protected seem. Follow the seem straight up to the glue-in anchors.
This line was originally envisioned as 5.13 climb straight up where the second and third bolts are utilizing the seam immediately to the left. But it turned out climbing up the seam about 4-5 feet to the route was significantly easier, more consistent with the rest of the route, and didn't seem like it strayed too far off course. So for an 11+ ascent it is okay to climb the seam in the grey band of rock just to the right of the bolts second and third bolts.
This line was originally envisioned as 5.13 climb straight up where the second and third bolts are utilizing the seam immediately to the left. But it turned out climbing up the seam about 4-5 feet to the route was significantly easier, more consistent with the rest of the route, and didn't seem like it strayed too far off course. So for an 11+ ascent it is okay to climb the seam in the grey band of rock just to the right of the bolts second and third bolts.
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