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Routes in Ra

Empire of the Air T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eternal Sunshine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Higher Calling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miner's Delight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moving Zen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nearer To Thee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rohan Face, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smeagol's Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strike It Rich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Training Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waimea S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walk On Water S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Windows On the World S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft, Grade II
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 2010
Page Views: 2,300 total · 26/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Jul 23, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Walk On Water climbs the awesome, blank-looking face and arete on the left margin of the WOW plate, P3. It's quite hard for the entire first half after which it eases to tricky .10+ to the anchor. Expect nonstop, mostly solid 5.12 right off the ledge for 45' with a technical 5.13 crux halfway through. The redpoint/endurance crux is 15' above the technical crux involving a nice dyno after moving off the arete. As for the crux itself, the hardest move is merely a matter of letting go with one hand from a fully outstretched span and snagging a micro-chip right in front of your nose. The net vertical gain is exactly 0'.

Spectacular and a little intimidating (but well protected), 'WOW-II' is highly technical and sustained, and it's definitely the hardest pitch at Empire. It's also pretty sequential and might be nearly impossible without pre-locating some crucial holds, making an onsight massively impressive.

Location

This is on the left side of the P3 plate of Windows on the World.

Approach via WOW, Eternal Sunshine, or EOA.

Lower and rap or continue on with WOW.

Protection

12 bolts + anchor.

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.13b
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.13b
WOW-II is a superb pitch for those climbers with the reach to do it. In the several years that I have worked this pitch with Mark, I have never found a way to solve the long reach between clips one and two. It looks to me as though Mark, at over 6 ft in height, is fully stretched tips to toes. We have tackled some complicated twists and tucks but these seem extremely difficult. If you solve this initial complexity, expect 50 ft of very continuously difficult sequences. Things back off considerably after this, but watch out for the building pump which could alone deep-six a red point.

BTW, a "pink point" on WOW-II seems pretty damn good in my book. None of the early clips comes off a rest, and speed clipping will be very important for the red point quest.

Reach problem: a diffficult crimp sequence can be used to solve the initial reach difficulties. However, this solution adds significantly to the crimp pump. Get a good shake before the traverse. Aug 1, 2011
Chris. T.
  5.13
Chris. T.  
  5.13
This climb is a masterpiece, combining fantastic movement, awesome exposure, and great rock. 'Walk on Water' is an instant classic that should not be overlooked. Jun 23, 2013
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
Amazing. You will be fine if you are under 6 feet. Aug 16, 2015
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
Beta alert. If you can't do the long reach, it is possible to clip the third bolt and escape left onto the bolted flake around the arete. The flake and the necessary footholds under it seemed solid in their current state. I was on TR but was able to reach all the bolts from stable stances. Unfortunately this variation avoids a very nice sequence from the third bolt to the long reach as well. I think this brings the overall difficulty down to mid-.12. Aug 16, 2015
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO
On the requirement for reach: I'm 5'8" with a minus 2 index and don't have any problems with reach on this route. T-Rex may apply.

After moving off the arete the move is actually a deadpoint not a dyno, so those with an aversion to dynos shouldn't be put off.

Today I ripped off the undercling jug after the technical crux and reaching the arete. What remains is smaller and makes the route a tad harder due to building pump but does not change the grade. Sorry about that.

Given the rock quality around the corner I would not suggest escaping around the corner at the third bolt. Stay the line and limit the chances of rock fall on unsuspecting folks below. Aug 23, 2015

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