Type: Trad, Sport, 20 ft
FA: Spring 2002
Page Views: 1,000 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Nagel on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is one of the many put up by Todd Offenbacher, Bugsy Offenbacher, Brad Jackson, Virginia DeRosa, Terry Lilianfield, Tara Offenbacher, and Dave Salazar. It's a pretty easy 5.7 and one of the four 5.7's in the area with only three of them worth climbing. Fortunately, this is one of the three. The climb is on the next spire to the left of "Mixed Emotions". It will be easy to spot if you look for the bolts to the left of a ledgy crack. There are four bolts with chains at the top but you'll only be able to see three of the four and the chains are just out of sight even though this is a short climb. The roof would be the crux, but it's a small roof. It's a good option if you're working in the 5.7 range. Good challenge for beginners and a good next step for those learning to place pro.

Location

Follow around to the left and behind the spire with "Mixed Emotions". Lower from the chains at the top.

Protection

4 draws with chains at the top. This route can also be trad climbed using a crack within reach to the left. Nuts to cams 2".

Photos

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mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.7
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.7
It is a short route, but I higher than Jedi, so more like 40'. Jun 22, 2012
Patrick S
Los Angeles, CA
 
Patrick S   Los Angeles, CA
 
Really fun route. Agree that it's longer than 20', closer to 35-40'.

There's a 5.6 crack variation to this route. Start up the crack to the right of the slab, traverse to the crack on the left of the slab halfway up to top out at the bolts. Couple of good jams and some lieback would make for good crack practice for a newb. Sep 10, 2017