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Routes in Luther Spires

Back Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beer and a Hotdog, Two Bucks S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Commercial Steak Sauce, Two Fifty S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dog and Grigri, Two Bucks S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Starter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
HeyY'all, Watch This T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jacko S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Spy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Cause S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Do It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Jerry S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mixed Emotions T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Route T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plane Crash S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Priceless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
See Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab-B T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Undertaker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Virginia T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wacko TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Widow Maker S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 20 ft
FA: Spring 2002
Page Views: 882 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Nagel on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is one of the many put up by Todd Offenbacher, Bugsy Offenbacher, Brad Jackson, Virginia DeRosa, Terry Lilianfield, Tara Offenbacher, and Dave Salazar. It's a pretty easy 5.7 and one of the four 5.7's in the area with only three of them worth climbing. Fortunately, this is one of the three. The climb is on the next spire to the left of "Mixed Emotions". It will be easy to spot if you look for the bolts to the left of a ledgy crack. There are four bolts with chains at the top but you'll only be able to see three of the four and the chains are just out of sight even though this is a short climb. The roof would be the crux, but it's a small roof. It's a good option if you're working in the 5.7 range. Good challenge for beginners and a good next step for those learning to place pro.

Location

Follow around to the left and behind the spire with "Mixed Emotions". Lower from the chains at the top.

Protection

4 draws with chains at the top. This route can also be trad climbed using a crack within reach to the left. Nuts to cams 2".

Photos

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Really fun route. Agree that it's longer than 20', closer to 35-40'.

There's a 5.6 offwidth crack variation to this route. Start up the crack to the right of the slab, traverse to the crack on the left of the slab halfway up to top out at the bolts. Couple of good jams and some lieback would make for good crack practice for a newb. Sep 10, 2017
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.7
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.7
It is a short route, but I higher than Jedi, so more like 40'. Jun 22, 2012