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Routes in Eagle Rock

Angry Birds T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bag Lady, The V6 7A
Broken Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corner Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle Brand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flake Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: John Langston and Justin Edl
Page Views: 944 total, 12/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Those damn green pigs stole your eggs. Fire yourself at them, kill them all, they will pay.

This route is such a surprise. It has bomber protection, is very un-Vedauwoo movements, and is loads of fun.

It definitely feels easier the more you do it, it's 12- for the onsight. I could see sneaking through all the cruxes after your 14th TR burn and calling it 10d. Do that if it makes you feel big.

Location

It is 15 feet left of Eagle Brand and uses the same anchor, too.

Protection

#4 and 5 BD stoppers, and a few finger-sized Aliens. Be sure to double up on either #0.75 Camalots or orange Aliens. There are two key placements in that size on this route. A #4 could be placed, but it's a pain, don't bother. The only specific beta is to bring a blue Alien/purple Mastercam and place under the roof. It'll allow a bomber placement and not fill up your hand holds.

Photos

Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
  5.12a
This route is super fun, has lots of tension sequences, and actually protects well with Aliens and C3s. So if you've got an itch to lead it, go for it! A bomber purple C3 can be placed from a press stance in the ledge/bulge feature halfway up, and a solid #1 Camalot comes a move later. As stated, place small gear in the roof to leave the handholds open. Save a couple fingers pieces for the top, this one makes you keep fighting.... Sep 30, 2014
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Davin, get that info and we will post it up. If it has been TR'd, then it has had a free ascent.... Aug 1, 2011
This route is indeed a great route and very worthwhile. Well done as it is nice and long compared to most Vedauwoo routes of this nature.

But, not so sure it's an FA. I climbed it back in 2001 or 2002 to confirm a suggested grade (similar to what is posted here) with Aron Bender and his friend John (will look up his last name). They had been on it as a project during their college years and had claimed to have climbed it. They did climb it on TR after I had done it to confirm things. They were under the impression it was climbed before them as they were given directions to it.

In any case, a great route! Nice work and I'll do a bit of research to post here in conclusion. Any help out there would be awesome. Jul 25, 2011
JNE
 
JNE  
 
This is a really cool route. Great rock, great position, and interesting movement. This climb is very uncharacteristic for Vedauwoo. So if you are sick of all the burly cracks and in a mood for something a bit sportier, you should check this one out. Jul 22, 2011