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Routes in Bügeleisen

Bresil T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 660 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Yves and Claude Remy, 1994
Page Views: 242 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tom Baerfuss on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description [Edit]

Very interesting climbing, not only on slab as it appears from below. Check Jürg von Känel's guidebook "Plaisir West"

Location [Edit]

It's the northernmost route, direct on the rim

Protection [Edit]

Supplement the bolts with some medium sized Camelots. Run out in pitch 3

Photos

We found the crux of the route to be the slab below the bulge, not the bulge itself, on pitch four.

For the final pitch, where the topo calls for a friend 1.5 placement in a pocket, you want to have exactly that - we had a yellow omegapac and it did not work, which made things a bit more exciting. Dec 27, 2011

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