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Routes in Orange Oswald Wall

Baby With A Nail Gun S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Barfing Butterflies S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chunko Goes Bowling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fabulous Groupies S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hell With That, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippie Dreams S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hunger Artist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say No T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moon Pie Deluxe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Express S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Orange Oswald S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scoot Your Muffin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snub Nose S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Souled Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strong Arming the Little Guy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Voodoo Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,752 total, 35/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Jul 20, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

30 feet of good hands to red slings attached to a bomber fixed piece and a mostly secure fixed nut. Continue past to a ledge, climb through a 15 foot offwidth section, pull under and out the crack leading through the roof to the top.

By far the best gear line in Summersville.

Location

Obvious crack to the right of Moon Pie Deluxe and Barfing Butterflies.

Protection

No bolt anchor. There is a healthy tree with a collection of (mostly) good slings and rings directly at the end of the crack system.Bring a #2 for the final roof.
Rack up to a #3 with some long runners for the offwidth.

Photos

Mark Maier
  5.10a
Mark Maier  
  5.10a
When I did the route there was no fixed gear or slings to be seen. There is a bolted anchor. I found the route clearly harder than other 5.9 cracks at the New. 10b/c seems too hard, to me, though. The chimney roof is really good, but arranging protection that doesn't lead to big rope drag while simultaneously keeping you from ledging out if you blow the lip turn is not simple, though. Oct 10, 2016
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
Just to re-iterate, there is no foot rail out left in-order to reach the upper roof crack easy. You have to actually chimney up to reach the jams. I agree with a 10b/c rating. I went horizontal while jamming out the roof crack. Excellent crack climb that should not be missed if you bring your trad rack. I placed 3 bd#2 on this climb, which were my last 3 pieces. Oct 27, 2015
Air Alexy  
 
There is now a bolt anchor. This route is quite tough for the grade. I would say it is easily 5.10b/c. Whatever that guy is standing on in the picture is no longer there. You have to go completely horizontal. May 4, 2015