Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Morse
Page Views: 2,025 total · 22/month
Shared By: Bill Morse on Jul 19, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

Climb Diesel, but rather than finishing at the 10 anchor climb right to the rest ledge of What About Bob and finish up the left leaning dihedral of of the original What About Bob. Seeing as how Diesel climbs WAY better than it looks, it has always been marred only by its short length. The original What About Bob finish, originally rated 12d????, lay unrepeated for years after only two assents by Jim Ewing and Luke Parady. The cryptically hard sequence left many a hard man shaking their head as they lowered off completely stymied. Finally unlocked over ten years later by Chris "The Deulenator" Deulen, the Bob finish appropriately caps Diesel with a feel through the upper dihedral reminiscent of perhaps the sierras more than Shagg and makes it totally full-value and way more rad. Even with the rest ledge it adds considerable difficulty to Diesel and greatly solidifies the 13d grade.

Protection

12 Bolts to fixed anchors

Photos

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Bill Morse
  5.13d
Bill Morse  
  5.13d
May want to clip the 3rd bolt on the 9 as the first so that the belayer can stand back far enough to see the climber up on the upper section. Jul 19, 2011
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
Inspiring send, Bill! Jul 20, 2011
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
Damnnnnn,Bill. Nice. Give me a shout brother, Im takin this year off. Jul 20, 2011
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
Welcome to MP my friend! And kicking it off in style! Jan 8, 2012
Bill Morse
  5.13d
Bill Morse  
  5.13d
Vin Diesel does the Bob start into Diesel rather than the 9. Another notch harder, but still very much 13d in my opinion. Aug 12, 2012