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Routes in Shagg Crag

Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ginseng Route S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grimas De Oro V8 7B
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raging Bull, The V8 7B
Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ritual , The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Morse
Page Views: 1,716 total, 22/month
Shared By: Bill Morse on Jul 19, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb Diesel, but rather than finishing at the 10 anchor climb right to the rest ledge of What About Bob and finish up the left leaning dihedral of of the original What About Bob. Seeing as how Diesel climbs WAY better than it looks, it has always been marred only by its short length. The original What About Bob finish, originally rated 12d????, lay unrepeated for years after only two assents by Jim Ewing and Luke Parady. The cryptically hard sequence left many a hard man shaking their head as they lowered off completely stymied. Finally unlocked over ten years later by Chris "The Deulenator" Deulen, the Bob finish appropriately caps Diesel with a feel through the upper dihedral reminiscent of perhaps the sierras more than Shagg and makes it totally full-value and way more rad. Even with the rest ledge it adds considerable difficulty to Diesel and greatly solidifies the 13d grade.

Protection

12 Bolts to fixed anchors

Photos

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Bill Morse  
 
Vin Diesel does the Bob start into Diesel rather than the 9. Another notch harder, but still very much 13d in my opinion. Aug 12, 2012
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
Welcome to MP my friend! And kicking it off in style! Jan 8, 2012
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
Damnnnnn,Bill. Nice. Give me a shout brother, Im takin this year off. Jul 20, 2011
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
Inspiring send, Bill! Jul 20, 2011
Bill Morse  
 
May want to clip the 3rd bolt on the 9 as the first so that the belayer can stand back far enough to see the climber up on the upper section. Jul 19, 2011