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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: FFA: Sean Nelb, July 10, 2011
Page Views: 1,964 total · 25/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Jul 19, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The classic, seldom-repeated Royal Robbins aid line has gone free at last! Or at least the first pitch has. The Window features stemming, tip-jams, and face climbing on one of the most impressive features of the Tower. Follow a thinning crack in a dihedral, getting progressively harder after 50 ft. Bolted anchors can be found next to a broken area on the face.

The remaining route is still an aid line. The thin crack continues and more face holds open up before anchors can be found under the imposing, difficult, A4 overhang that looms above. Come free it!

Location

On the left side of the roofs that make up the Window formation on the Tower, climb the right side of a distinct, orange-colored column. Three cracks right of Animal Cracker Land.

Protection

Thin. Small wires to #1 camalot. Optional #3 or #4 camalot for the start. Remaining pitches unknown. One 70 meter rope will get you down with a little 3rd class to the ledge.

Photos

Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Nice job Sean. Maybe you should call it Windex because you seem to be cleaning up around there. Jul 20, 2011