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Routes in Cyanide Gully

Africa Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Day glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duct Taped Plum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sierra Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silverback T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unspeakable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Trish Corto, Robert Newsom, Dan Shively, Eric Sarvey 5/2005
Page Views: 1,044 total, 13/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on Jul 19, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Head up a dihedral with a good number of well weathered vertical and horizontal flakes (5.6). Belay on a ledge at a bolted anchor shared with "Africa Flake" or pass the belay and continue up the corner with great hand jams and stemming. When you reach a slanted blocky ledge, (belay here with gear if you skipped the bolted belay) climb the crack system to your left (5.9). Belay at a bolted anchor. There is supposed to be a third 5.7 pitch but I have yet to do it.

Two rappels with a single rope from the second anchor.

Location

Start in a left facing dihedral just after the trail starts to head uphill. You should be able to see the "Africa Flake" (10a) from the ground. Duct Taped Plum heads up the corner to it's right.

Protection

Standard Rack. Bolted anchors.
Zev
  5.9
Zev  
  5.9
Decent route. From the first belay, the P2 5.9 crack looks too flared to place pro, but there are actually perfect slots for nuts and small cams every 5-10 feet. Some technical moves guard the bomber hand jams at the roof that ends the pitch.

Thanks for the quick links, Josh! Nov 13, 2017
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
Added quick links to the second pitch bolt anchor shared with Africa Flake, so now no need to leave gear or trust the faded slings. If I had mussy hooks I would have thrown those on. Apr 23, 2013