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Routes in Cyanide Gully

Africa Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Day glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duct Taped Plum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sierra Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silverback T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unspeakable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rober Newsom, Dan Shively, Denise Barger 4/2006, Ground Up
Page Views: 215 total, 3/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on Jul 19, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Ascend a fun 5.8 hand/finger crack to a ledge with a bolted belay. Alternatively, climb the first pitch of "Duct Taped Plum" to the same belay.

From here, lieback up the left facing flake/crack (5.7/5.8) until you can move right into the seam. Stem up the flared double seams (sustained 10a and BD C3's are nice to have here) until you're under the roof. Clip the first bolt and pull the roof (10a). Then, trend up and right across the face (5.9) clipping the second bolt as you go. Finish up the final cracks (5.9) on "Duct Taped Plum." An awesome pitch with some variability.

Rappel with a 60m to the first belay then one more to the ground.

Location

Africa Flake is on the left hand side of Cyanide Gully. Approach per "Silverback", then head west along the base of the cliffs. The route begins in a very weathered looking left facing corner just as the trail heads uphill. You can see the flake shaped like Africa on the 2nd pitch from the ground.

Protection

Standard rack with double cams for the final crack where "Africa Flake" merges with "Duct Taped Plum." Yet, if you happen to be a Sierra hardman (not me ;) except in my head) double cams would be overkill. Two shiny bolts protect the face crux. Bring thin gear for the double seams.

Photos

Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
Croft and Lewis guidebook says there is a third pitch to this route rated 5.7, but I have yet to do it.

edit 4/23/13: added quick links to the second pitch bolt anchor shared with Duct Taped Plum and removed the faded slings. If I had mussy hooks with me I would have thrown those on. Jul 19, 2011