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5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | K. Schalk 1980 |
Page Views: | 429 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Shawn Heath on Jul 18, 2011 |
Admins: | Shawn Heath |
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Description
This route is a crack climb with a very sporty feel to it. I didn't lay a single jam in this, but the crack you follow takes gear well. The top is cool with a very exposed, poorly protected chimney that's worth doing.
Climb the obvious crack making use of the holds around it. Get up on the easy 4th class terrain and start climbing up to the chimney above. Work through the chimney, which you can climb like a sport climber or you could stem off both sides. The feet are great but there's nothing but air under you. I would recomment taking a tcu sized between a .5 and a .75 camalot to protect this section.
The name of this route translates to "To the Second Cave".
Climb the obvious crack making use of the holds around it. Get up on the easy 4th class terrain and start climbing up to the chimney above. Work through the chimney, which you can climb like a sport climber or you could stem off both sides. The feet are great but there's nothing but air under you. I would recomment taking a tcu sized between a .5 and a .75 camalot to protect this section.
The name of this route translates to "To the Second Cave".
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