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Routes in Leupoldsteiner Wand North

Alles Balleddi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Allmächt schöi T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Weg durch das Auenland S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hallux Valgus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Julia 88 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
La belle du jour S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Libero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Master of Desaster S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wetterspitze T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zur zweiten Höhle T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: K. Schalk 1980
Page Views: 22 total, 0/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 18, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This route is a crack climb with a very sporty feel to it. I didn't lay a single jam in this, but the crack you follow takes gear well. The top is cool with a very exposed, poorly protected chimney that's worth doing.
Climb the obvious crack making use of the holds around it. Get up on the easy 4th class terrain and start climbing up to the chimney above. Work through the chimney, which you can climb like a sport climber or you could stem off both sides. The feet are great but there's nothing but air under you. I would recomment taking a tcu sized between a .5 and a .75 camalot to protect this section.
The name of this route translates to "To the Second Cave".

Location

Obvious crack to the right of Hallux Valgus and directly under two big holes about 35 feet up.

Protection

Bring a #2 camalot for the entrance crack and a couple other smaller cams, plus stoppers and some smaller hexes. There's 1 bolt down low and no anchor. You can climb over to the Hallux Valgus anchor though...

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