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Routes in Leupoldsteiner Wand North

Alles Balleddi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Allmächt schöi T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Weg durch das Auenland S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hallux Valgus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Julia 88 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
La belle du jour S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Libero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Master of Desaster S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wetterspitze T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zur zweiten Höhle T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: T. Erdenkäufer 1987
Page Views: 43 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 18, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a pretty cool climb that follows a dihedral through some slightly polished rock. Climb up moderate rock, following the dihedral and making use of stemming. I would recommend placing a cam here before the first bolt, but if you don't have any, it's okay. You should be able to safely reach the first bolt without falling. Continue up using the crack and anything else available around it because your stemming has come to an end. Enter the crux and clip the second bolt. Struggle to advance without slipping before clipping the third bolt. Here's a good picture of somebody working the beginning of the crux: http://www.klettern.frankenjura.com/php3/select_route.php3?id=4-04-28--13 Afterwards, continue up to the overhang and reach high for the good holds. Dance all the way to the anchors.
The meaning of the route is a bit difficult to translate, but it's kind of like "It's all good".

Location

The obvious dihedral to the left of the block situated under the large overhang that Balrog climbs out of.

Protection

Since this is a crack, feel free to take only trad gear and take pictures of your gear placed next to the bolts to show all the locals how bad ass you are. Or you could bring along 6 quickdraws for the bolts and anchor.

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