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Magnetic Rock

5.9 V2-3, Trad, Boulder, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
Minnesota > Gunflint Trail

Description

A large exposed glacial rock formation 1.5 miles from the Gunflint Trail on "Magetic Lake" hiking trail. There's two obvious routes, with potential for some harder variations. Easiest route (red, V1) starts on a large flat face on the right side of the rock when viewed from the approach trail. Starts with large ledges and easy moves before wrapping around to the back side of the rock. From there follow an obvious crack up to the top of the rock.

The second route (blue, V2-V3) goes straight up the large flat face you see when approaching the rock from the trail. Use some good fingerlocks and foot jams to work your way up. While just a V2-V3, take your time as a fall from the top will likely result in something breaking.

While the lower sections are bouldering, the route is more soloing than highball bouldering. The harder route could be somewhat protected with pads, but falling on the easier route would be a disaster and oncontrolable, so if you're not confident just take a rope. Protection is beyond plentiful in all sizes. A nut set would be sufficient, with maybe some #1-#2 camalots for a top anchor if you want (or just use a large sling over the top). Overall a stunning monolith that juts above the vegitation below, providing a beautiful view from the top. Definetly a classic worth the time.

Location

Take the Gunflint Trail North to the "Magnetic Lake" trailhead on the Right side of road. Hike the trail 1.5 miles through some rocky, but well established terrain. Very fun approach!

Protection

Lots of cracks. Stoppers and Hexes smaller than fist size should work. Or some good crash pads.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The harder route
[Hide Photo] The harder route
The top of the easier route
[Hide Photo] The top of the easier route
Good line with thin gear. Probably better as a boulder/solo.
[Hide Photo] Good line with thin gear. Probably better as a boulder/solo.
Placing the .2
[Hide Photo] Placing the .2
Some stellar moves and jams.
[Hide Photo] Some stellar moves and jams.
View from the top
[Hide Photo] View from the top
Magnetic Rock.  Pictured climbing the West Face.
[Hide Photo] Magnetic Rock. Pictured climbing the West Face.
I am currently exploring the possibility of a couple of bolt anchors at the top to make for a safer lead climb. Waiting for approval from the Forest Service.
[Hide Photo] I am currently exploring the possibility of a couple of bolt anchors at the top to make for a safer lead climb. Waiting for approval from the Forest Service.
The start of the easier route
[Hide Photo] The start of the easier route
Magnetic Rock.  The South Face.
[Hide Photo] Magnetic Rock. The South Face.
Magnetic Rock.  The North Face.
[Hide Photo] Magnetic Rock. The North Face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Lande
Duluth, MN
[Hide Comment] I grew up a few miles from Magnetic Rock it's been done before. I don't know who got the FA, it would have been at least 15-20 years ago. Not sure if it's been bouldered yet though... Jul 19, 2011
[Hide Comment] V3/5.9? V3 is 5.11. Sep 12, 2012
Tyler Vaughan
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] I climbed this thing a few days ago. It felt like 5.8 or so but who knows. I rapped off my buddies body wheight and set my rope in a notch at the top. Good fun! Jun 23, 2015
[Hide Comment] I was thinking of doing the same thing, photos of the rap notch? Jul 7, 2015
Finnlay Jones
Minneapolis, MN
[Hide Comment] Anyone have any beta on putting up a top rope? Is there anything at the top for an anchor? Or does anyone know what size cams are needed for the crack. Thanks Jul 21, 2022