Dike Route

The Dike Route is a ~3,000 foot alpine climb that ascends the obvious black diabase dike on the Middle Teton's eastern sub peak, the Dike Pinnacle (12,305'). Route finding on this climb is pretty straightforward, and difficulties come not by technical grade, but in navigating stretches of loose rock, runout terrain, steep snow, a convoluted descent (from the Dike Pinnacle to Ellingwood Col) and climbing the east face of the Middle Teton, which does present some route finding difficulties and steep snow hazard of it's own. Instead of a topo or pitch description, this climb is best broken into sections:

1. Lower Dike (5.6)

4 pitches of generally easy rock, never exceeding 5.6, follow the diabase dike of the Dike Pinnacle on exclusively black rock to a collection of formidable alpine pines that provide excellent canopy. Gear, especially on the first two pitches, is few and far between, but the ease of climbing makes the runout tolerable. Some loose rock, very enjoyable.

2. Upper Dike to Pinnacle Summit

Follow the dike as best as possible as it weaves in and out of the vast choss filled east face of the Dike Pinnacle. When on the dike, expect fourth and low-fifth class scrambling, with the occasional "bust a move". On the chossy face expect just that, loose third class. Eventually the dike terminates on the north ridge, and clean granite slabs (4th class) can be followed to the Pinnacle summit. Snow will be present on this section early-mid season, but can be scouted from the meadows.

3. Descend Dike Pinnacle

If continuing on the Middle Teton, see attached photo/topo for rappel descent to Ellingwood Col. Many parties do not continue on the summit, but rather bail directly into the South Fork of Garnet Canyon, or north onto the Middle Teton Glacier. A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range may have more information about these descents.

4. Cross Ellingwood Col

A steep snow crossing (~40+ degrees) across the Ellingwood Col should be expected year round to access the East Face. In mid-August 2022 we handled this crossing (in soft conditions) with an axe and belay, sans crampons. This route does not see much traffic so a bootpack should not be expected

5. East Face Middle Teton (5.4)

Four pitches of low angle slab on compact and clean Teton granite lead from the Ellingwood Col to the summit of the Middle Teton. In dry conditions the general idea is to "follow the weaknesses" staying left (south) of the primary east face drainage gully. The climbing should never exceed 5.4/5.5, and best judgement should be adequate for navigation. On pitch three we ended up in the upper gully and found a fixed anchor, climbed through a series of steep flakes and regained the south buttress. The final pitch took us to the notch separating the north and south summits, and traversed north and up to the true summit of the Middle Teton. The rock on the upper mountain is solid, but large wandering runout should be expected. In early season this face is often chocked with snow and wet rock.

6. Descent

Southwest Couloir (3rd class)