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West Chimney

5.8, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2 from 20 votes
FA: Warren Harding and John Ohrenschall
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > W Face

Description

A failed attempt to reach the South Summit. The first ascentionists executed a shoulder stand to bypass the dirty 5.8 section on the second pitch.

The start of the route is obvious. Head up the 5.5 chimney with a crack on the left side for pro. At the top of the chimney, climb spooky flaky rock to the left to surpass the chimney's roof.

A second dirty pitch continues to the top at 5.8 or you can climb "T.M.'s Deviation."

Location

The next trad climb right of "Pony Express." Often used as an approach for "T.M.'s Deviation."

Protection

Nuts and small to medium cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

West Chimney, 5.8
[Hide Photo] West Chimney, 5.8
Tinn Lee cruising up the chimney on P1
[Hide Photo] Tinn Lee cruising up the chimney on P1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jared E
CO-based healthcare traveler
[Hide Comment] This would be a pretty good short and sweet route if it just had anchors right at the ledge at the top. The flakes above are rotten and the traverse to the neighboring anchor is harder than 5.8 and just not good. Apr 7, 2025