PRINT: Rock Climb The Diggler, Golden

The Diggler

5.11+, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 1.7 from 27 votes
FA: Luke Childers
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Armory

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.

Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

NOTE: FA: Luke Childers, June 2011.
FFA: Kevin Capps in July 2011.

This little number was originally bolted to provide a warm up for the Armory. Turns out it's just a touch hard for a warm up, I think!!??!!

This line has nice solid stone and good movement. The climbing is demanding and powerful right off the bat!! with the crux kicking in around the 2nd bolt. The upper section is quite a bit easier. The moves are fun, but I only give the line one star because it is quite short, but it is worth a send if you're in the area. Currently it's the easiest sport route at the Armory. Not a good line to get on in the heat of the summer!!!

Location

The line is at the Armory on white colored rock about 50 or so feet left of The Gauntlet. It's the short 4 bolt line on the leftmost section of the Armory as you make your way a long the hillside towards the Crystal Tower.

Protection

4 bolts/ 2 bolt anchor. currently the anchors have 2 draws for lower off. Please don't take them. Going to put good quicklinks or chains soon. Thxs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo beta for "The Diggler".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Childers

5.11+

I will be posting some good pics in a week or two. Sorry folks, the pics that I took for the photo beta post were lost!! Jul 17, 2011

Geoff U
Centennial, CO

5.11+

A bit chossy - accidentally got off route to left at third bolt (saw chalked up holds) - not a good idea.... Apr 7, 2014

Tane Owens
Las Vegas, NV

I personally think this is a great route. Although it is short, the only real knock from me is that the third bolt might be better placed a little further to the left as to follow the natural features of the rock. Beta: I say go out left to the chalked up holds and make the big, balancy step back right on the sloper. It was super fun that way and had decent flow. Jul 22, 2015

evan h
Longmont, CO

5.11+

I also think this is a pretty cool little route. It looks like a total turd, but it climbs well and forces some finesse. Dec 9, 2018

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

FWIW, the third bolt hanger is spinning, which is not surprising given the bolt's position. The holds lead well to the left, and it would not surprise me if a few swinging falls loosened the nut. While a fall going for the fourth bolt is unlikely, the holds are not entirely obvious, and everything is riding on that bolt, where even a successful catch is barely going to keep you off the ground. The fourth bolt protects about 5 feet of 5.8 climbing on jugs. If I had the time and enthusiasm, I would rebolt this climb. As it is now, it's an awkward, quirky, somewhat sandbagged, Clear Creek thing. Sep 24, 2023