Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Wailing Wall

El Supremo Grande S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fit to be Tied S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Like Bookends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 151 total, 2/month
Shared By: Adam B on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a nice friction slab with consistent moves all the way to the anchor.

Eds. This description has been updated to reflect the entirety of its 115' of climbing.

The above stops at the 1st set of anchors and is 5.10 to 5.10+. Per Mark Rolofson: continuing to the 2nd set of anchors is 5.11d. The last moves are the crux.

Location

It is the 3rd route from the north end of the formation.

Protection

10 bolts to 1st anchor and maybe 2-3 after that anchor.

Per Mark Rolofson: to climb the route to the 2nd set of anchors, bring 15 quickdraws. There are Mussy hooks at the 2nd anchor. It is 115 feet to the top anchor, so bring a 70 meter rope or do two lowers / rappels to descend.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
A very cool slab route. Is it only 5.10 to the first anchor? I'd say it's very solid 5.10d. Quite sustained with several tricky sections. I first climbed it in Spring 2005 & thought it was .11a. Some footholds can break & sand can build up after rainstorms, so I don't expect the climb to feel the same as it did the last time I climbed it.

Climbing to the top & second anchor is rated .11d in the guide. It is very solid .11d to the top. The last move is the crux. Balance up on a crumbling foothold with no real handholds & lunge to a jug. I was on the route last weekend, & the last move seems much harder with the final foothold worse. Enjoy this challenging line if you like hard slab climbing. 15 clips / mussy hooks (10 bolts / 2 bolt anchor / 4 bolts / 2 bolt anchor with hooks). 115 ft. to the top anchor, so bring a 70 meter rope or do two lowers / rappels to descend.

5.10d to first anchor at 90 ft. 5.11d to the top. Great big toe & calf workout. Stay focused. Nov 29, 2016
Chris Mack  
 
You can take it to the top and descend with one 70m rope. The route's true finish (past the intermediate anchor) is out of character with the rest of the route and is very desperate smearing to the top anchor. Body tension and good smearing technique will get you through it. Jun 1, 2012