Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA: Unknown, Variation: Aidan Maguire, 1990
Page Views: 827 total · 9/month
Shared By: Johnny K. on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located to the right of the roofs. Climb the thin dihedral that was once an aid ladder (3 bolts),and moving up the face for the variation (.11) or you can continue up Castle Crack to finish(10c/d).

The aid portion in the dihedral has only been freed on top rope, it still awaits a first lead.

Location

Located on the south face of Castle Rock, on the right side of Pigeon Wings and The Roofs, is the clean dihedral with the 3 old school button head bolts/hangers. Can not be missed.

Protection

Bring your rp's and 000/z1 cams
runners

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Photos

Nice hand jam before the crux moves.
Nice hand jam before the crux moves.
 1
Grappling hooks
Grappling hooks
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1 Comment

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Dan Freeman
Los Angeles
  5.10c/d
Dan Freeman   Los Angeles
  5.10c/d
Fun TR. A couple of balance-y moves up to the dihedral, and then some pretty good slots for hands in the cracks on the left and right sides of the arete to your right. Smear the face and find some tiny knobs for feet until you get to a hand-sized jug/flake on the face of the arete. From there make a looong reach left or up to gain the rail of Castle Crack and you're on your way. Sep 6, 2016