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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Castle Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grappling Hooks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hammock Boys S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pigeon Wings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofs, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA: Unknown, Variation: Aidan Maguire, 1990
Page Views: 766 total, 10/month
Shared By: Johnny K. on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located to the right of the roofs. Climb the thin dihedral that was once an aid ladder (3 bolts),and moving up the face for the variation (.11) or you can continue up Castle Crack to finish(10c/d).

The aid portion in the dihedral has only been freed on top rope, it still awaits a first lead.

Location

Located on the south face of Castle Rock, on the right side of Pigeon Wings and The Roofs, is the clean dihedral with the 3 old school button head bolts/hangers. Can not be missed.

Protection

Bring your rp's and 000/z1 cams
runners

Photos

Dan Freeman
Los Angeles
  5.10c/d
Dan Freeman   Los Angeles
  5.10c/d
Fun TR. A couple of balance-y moves up to the dihedral, and then some pretty good slots for hands in the cracks on the left and right sides of the arete to your right. Smear the face and find some tiny knobs for feet until you get to a hand-sized jug/flake on the face of the arete. From there make a looong reach left or up to gain the rail of Castle Crack and you're on your way. Sep 6, 2016