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Lucky Town

5.11b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
FA: Colby Wayment
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Ogden > Schoolroom > Asbury Park > Gangsta' Ledge

Description

This good route is the mirror image of Teardrops. I would say it's even more airy. From Gangsta Ledge, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.

I did not want to compromise Father Roy, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The first bolt shouldn't be too hard to clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt. Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the slab past another bolt to the anchors.

Protection

#1 and/or #2 Camalot (doesn't hurt to have both) for the Father Roy portion of the route. Then 4 protection bolts + two bolts for anchors.

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Fun on the quartzite....
[Hide Photo] Fun on the quartzite....

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Every bit as good as the other two, in my obviously biased opinion. Jul 16, 2011
Eric Zschiesche
Ogden, UT
[Hide Comment] CW,..obviously, as with many subjective assessments there can be tinges of bias, in this case, another subjective nod for the above comparison. Jul 17, 2011