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Routes in Gangsta' Ledge

A Country Mile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father Roy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Giants of Science S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Town S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rattlesnake Speedway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Takeda Route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teardrops on the City S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiny Giant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Colby Wayment
Page Views: 64 total, 1/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Jul 16, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This good route is the mirror image of Teardrops. It has a similar airy feel. From Gangsta Ledge, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.

I did not want to compromise Father Roy, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt. Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the easy, kind of runout slab to the anchors.

Protection

#1 and/or #2 Camalot (doesn't hurt to have both) for the Father Roy portion of the route. Then 3 protection bolts + two bolts for anchors.

Photos

CW,..obviously, as with many subjective assessments there can be tinges of bias, in this case, another subjective nod for the above comparison. Jul 17, 2011
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
 
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
 
Every bit as good as the other two, in my obviously biased opinion. Jul 16, 2011