Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Colby Wayment
Page Views: 706 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Jul 16, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This good route is the mirror image of Teardrops. I would say it's even more airy. From Gangsta Ledge, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.

I did not want to compromise Father Roy, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The first bolt shouldn't be too hard to clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt. Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the slab past another bolt to the anchors.

Protection Suggest change

#1 and/or #2 Camalot (doesn't hurt to have both) for the Father Roy portion of the route. Then 4 protection bolts + two bolts for anchors.