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Utah
> Wasatch Range
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> Ogden
> Schoolroom
> Asbury Park
> Gangsta' Ledge
Lucky Town
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Gangsta' Ledge
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A Country Mile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Father Roy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Giants of Science S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucky Town S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rattlesnake Speedway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Takeda Route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teardrops on the City S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tiny Giant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 41.2226, -111.92461 |
| FA: | Colby Wayment |
| Page Views: | 808 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Colby Wayment on Jul 16, 2011 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Description
This good route is the mirror image of Teardrops. I would say it's even more airy. From Gangsta Ledge, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.
I did not want to compromise Father Roy, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The first bolt shouldn't be too hard to clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt. Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the slab past another bolt to the anchors.
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