Lucky Town
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Colby Wayment |
Page Views: | 726 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Colby Wayment on Jul 16, 2011 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Description
This good route is the mirror image of Teardrops. I would say it's even more airy. From Gangsta Ledge, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.
I did not want to compromise Father Roy, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The first bolt shouldn't be too hard to clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt. Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the slab past another bolt to the anchors.
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