Spontaneity Arete
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 96 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Larry Goldie & Scott Johnston (2004) |
Page Views: | 12,852 total · 83/month |
Shared By: | atfarley farley on Jul 14, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Description
1st: from snag on exposed side of ridge follow cracks up to just below the roof
2nd: under roof and out right another 50 ft.
Class 3 for ten mins
3rd: start on the steepening ground and follow cracks up until comfortable or you reach the base of a 10" crack.
4th: Find or start up 10" crack (gear to left), short. Once on top follow finger and hand cracks until past a shallow gully and bushes, belay at flat section.
5th: follow crack in corner to the right, or cracks strait above to a tree. Follow corner that the tree is in (lieback). Once above corner follow moderate ground before another steepening in the ridge.
6th: follow cracks (picture) up to less steep ground. Belay after ~140 feet, before final head wall which has #3 crack out left.
7th: optional, #3 crack Left of an easier gully. Short, two or three pieces, but well worth it.
Descend the route (careful, some rope stretching raps with a 60)
Location
(In Mazama Guide book) From the Pullout across the valley from the formation follow climbers trail, which starts at south then of pull off, down to the creek and back up the opposite side of the valley. The sandy ledges start about ~100-150 Left of the drainage (Picture.) Following these ledges up and Left, following easiest ground, will get you to the fixed lines. From the top of the fixed lines scramble up and a little right to gain a weak ridge line. From here follow the developing ridge to where the ridge steepens into upper 5th class. From these few trees traverse out left to find the snag mentioned in the book and vertical (#3) 5.7 crack, both of which are on the more exposed part of the ridge. This is where the first pitch starts.
As of July 2023, there is a sweet new approach that mostly avoids the hazard and shenanigans of the fixed lines. Once you break into the scree field directly below the cave, look to climber's right, and find the yellow flagging tape. Follow it! The new approach follows a series of treed ledges with significantly less loose rock and exposure than the old approach that climbs to the left of the cave. It rejoins the old approach above what was previously the third fixed line.
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