Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Jackie Paik, Deb Thompson?
Page Views: 761 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 13, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is an obvious chimney that catches your eye as you inspect the east face of this small crag. It has probably been ascended previously, maybe even by a rodent. For now, we'll throw out a temporary name, in honor of a pet rodent, until someone else claims it.

Start in a cleft/chimney. The left wall had more climber-like features, although you could stay to the right of the chimney, too. The start is a big lean on gear and has some slopers, thus the PG-13 rating. Once out of the chimney, continue right to a ledge, then angle left on good, fun face holds.

There is no fixed anchor above. You can sling a big horn and use a #4 Camalot in a slot near an aspen close to the rock. You can also use #0.5 & #1 Camalots in a crack to flesh out your anchor.

Ah...to get off. That is probably the crux. You could downclimb the route, simul-rappel off the short west and east faces, make a short downclimb to the aspen tree on the west face, or traverse 60-70 feet south to the top of My Grain Headache's anchor and rappel. The last option requires a 5.7 or so move down to the anchors (better from climber's right).

Location Suggest change

This is the obvious chimney/cleft on the east face.

Protection Suggest change

Rack up to a #4 Camalot. We used red Alien, #0.5-#4 Camalot with 2 #1 Camalots, #10 hex.