Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jackie Paik, Deb Thompson?
Page Views: 177 total · 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 13, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an obvious chimney that catches your eye as you inspect the east face of this small crag. It has probably been ascended previously, maybe even by a rodent. For now, we'll throw out a temporary name, in honor of a pet rodent, until someone else claims it.

Start in a cleft/chimney. The left wall had more climber-like features, although you could stay to the right of the chimney, too. The start is a big lean on gear and has some slopers, thus the PG-13 rating. Once out of the chimney, continue right to a ledge, then angle left on good, fun face holds.

There is no fixed anchor above. You can sling a big horn and use a #4 Camalot in a slot near an aspen close to the rock. You can also use #0.5 & #1 Camalots in a crack to flesh out your anchor.

Ah...to get off. That is probably the crux. You could downclimb the route, simul-rappel off the short west and east faces, make a short downclimb to the aspen tree on the west face, or traverse 60-70 feet south to the top of My Grain Headache's anchor and rappel. The last option requires a 5.7 or so move down to the anchors (better from climber's right).

Location

This is the obvious chimney/cleft on the east face.

Protection

Rack up to a #4 Camalot. We used red Alien, #0.5-#4 Camalot with 2 #1 Camalots, #10 hex.

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