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Squiggles
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Jackie Paik, Deb Thompson? |
Page Views: | 761 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 13, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is an obvious chimney that catches your eye as you inspect the east face of this small crag. It has probably been ascended previously, maybe even by a rodent. For now, we'll throw out a temporary name, in honor of a pet rodent, until someone else claims it.
Start in a cleft/chimney. The left wall had more climber-like features, although you could stay to the right of the chimney, too. The start is a big lean on gear and has some slopers, thus the PG-13 rating. Once out of the chimney, continue right to a ledge, then angle left on good, fun face holds.
There is no fixed anchor above. You can sling a big horn and use a #4 Camalot in a slot near an aspen close to the rock. You can also use #0.5 & #1 Camalots in a crack to flesh out your anchor.
Ah...to get off. That is probably the crux. You could downclimb the route, simul-rappel off the short west and east faces, make a short downclimb to the aspen tree on the west face, or traverse 60-70 feet south to the top of My Grain Headache's anchor and rappel. The last option requires a 5.7 or so move down to the anchors (better from climber's right).
Start in a cleft/chimney. The left wall had more climber-like features, although you could stay to the right of the chimney, too. The start is a big lean on gear and has some slopers, thus the PG-13 rating. Once out of the chimney, continue right to a ledge, then angle left on good, fun face holds.
There is no fixed anchor above. You can sling a big horn and use a #4 Camalot in a slot near an aspen close to the rock. You can also use #0.5 & #1 Camalots in a crack to flesh out your anchor.
Ah...to get off. That is probably the crux. You could downclimb the route, simul-rappel off the short west and east faces, make a short downclimb to the aspen tree on the west face, or traverse 60-70 feet south to the top of My Grain Headache's anchor and rappel. The last option requires a 5.7 or so move down to the anchors (better from climber's right).
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