All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Tribut… > Lily Mountain > Slamdance Buttress
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Jackie Paik, Deb Thompson?|
|Page Views:||122 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Jul 13, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is an obvious chimney that catches your eye as you inspect the east face of this small crag. It has probably been ascended previously, maybe even by a rodent. For now, we'll throw out a temporary name, in honor of a pet rodent, until someone else claims it.
Start in a cleft/chimney. The left wall had more climber-like features, although you could stay to the right of the chimney, too. The start is a big lean on gear and has some slopers, thus the PG-13 rating. Once out of the chimney, continue right to a ledge, then angle left on good, fun face holds.
There is no fixed anchor above. You can sling a big horn and use a #4 Camalot in a slot near an aspen close to the rock. You can also use #0.5 & #1 Camalots in a crack to flesh out your anchor.
Ah...to get off. That is probably the crux. You could downclimb the route, simul-rappel off the short west and east faces, make a short downclimb to the aspen tree on the west face, or traverse 60-70 feet south to the top of My Grain Headache's anchor and rappel. The last option requires a 5.7 or so move down to the anchors (better from climber's right).