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Routes in Quebrada Rurec

Mission Control T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A2+
Shaqsha Standard Route AI3
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Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Cameron Tague, Kent McClannan 1999
Page Views: 928 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kent McClannan on Jul 12, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description [Suggest Change]

Below is the American Alpine Journal entry describing the route.

Unnamed Peak, Mission Control. Kent McClannan and I climbed a new route on an unnamed peak west of Shaqsha in the Cordillera Blanca. The granite wall, which tops out at ca. 16,000' is clearly visible from a base camp midway up the Rurec Valley and can be identified by the low vegetation- to-rock ratio. On this wall's east face, Mission Control (IV 5.11+ A2+) was completed over three days between periods of unsettled weather in June. The route follows an obvious right- leaning, right facing dihedral system for four pitches, then follows the ridge for an additional eight pitches. Most of the harder climbing was encountered in the first half of the route, with the crux (the "Jules Verne Simulator) coming at the end of pitch 3. We rappelled the steep yet shorter section of the wall just south of the summit. There was no sign of previous route activity elsewhere on the peak.
Cameron Tague*
American Alpine Journal 2000, Vol 42, pg 253

The route is on a sub peak that is part of the western rib of Shaqsha. It was unofficially renamed Punta Giampiero Capoccia by a team of Italians who thought they were the first to climb this feature in 2010. The feature is locally referred to as Quilluhirka. Additionally, their route El SueƱo de los Excluidos 1440m,VII/VII+, A2 climbs Mission Control's upper section joining Mission Control just above pitch 4.

  • Cameron Tague fell to his death on the East Face of Longs Peak a.k.a The Diamond on July 6th 2000. He is greatly missed.

Location [Suggest Change]

Midway up the valley, before Shaqsha, aim for the dominate rock formation. Ascend the ramp/ gulley system (that angles up and right) to access the hanging plateau at base of Quilluhirka's clean east face. Begin climbing at the base of the obvious system that splits the face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard free rack and light aid rack (including beaks, heads, hooks (include bat))

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