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Black Arrow

5.10, Trad, 330 ft, 4 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 17 votes
FA: John Burcham, Zack Bastow
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Dry Creek Spires > Dry Creek Spire

Description

P1: (5.9) A short pitch. Climb up and left past a couple bolts to the limestone band. Place a small-ish piece, the up and left to a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Up and left to a hand crack. Up the crack to a bulge with a finger crack. Climb this (crux) to a nice crack above, then slightly left to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.9/5.10) Continue up a nice hand crack to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a bolt, which protects a reachy move (maybe height dependant?) then up & left to a bolted anchor.

P4: (5.10-) Work up and right through a crack, then left to a bolt, then up to a bolted belay.

Location

Starts about the middle, at a couple bolts going up & left to the limestone band. The first belay bolts are visible from just down & left of the start of the route.

Protection

A few small cams, doubles through #3 camalot, slings & a couple quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim about to pull the crux on P3
[Hide Photo] Tim about to pull the crux on P3
Catherine leading pitch 1 of Black Arrow with Manny belaying.
[Hide Photo] Catherine leading pitch 1 of Black Arrow with Manny belaying.
Black Arrow.
[Hide Photo] Black Arrow.
Manny leading the second (crux) pitch of Black Arrow in Sedona, with Catherine belaying.
[Hide Photo] Manny leading the second (crux) pitch of Black Arrow in Sedona, with Catherine belaying.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Beautiful route, but it gets a lot of sun. P2 is definitely the crux and most sustained. The bolt-protected moves on P3 are not a problem if you're short, as there are many reasonable options to pull pass the bulge. Apr 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] Only one 70 meter rope needed for the rappels. Feb 5, 2015
SummitSender
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Warning Beta Info:
Hardest section is 10- at the hardest! Rest is 5.6 - 5.9
Single rack - red c3 to #3 double rack was way too much gear
1 70 meter
link 1&2 3&4 otherwise ur climbing 4 tiny pitches 15-35 feet each...
After the 4th pitch anchor is a huge bee hive up in crack so be warned. Apr 8, 2016
Derek Field
California
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Awesome... a bit of everything packed into a relatively short wall. First few moves off the ground are surprisingly sporty, second pitch is stellar, third great as well with splitter crack. Three stars for varied movements, consistently great exposure, and memorable cruxes. Single rack up to BD #2 is plenty, and a single 70-m will get you down. Aug 29, 2016