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Routes in Dry Creek Spire

Black Arrow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Creek Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Ending, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 4 pitches
FA: John Burcham, Zack Bastow
Page Views: 1,462 total, 19/month
Shared By: Mike on Jul 11, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

P1: (5.9) A short pitch. Climb up and left past a couple bolts to the limestone band. Place a small-ish piece, the up and left to a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Up and left to a hand crack. Up the crack to a bulge with a finger crack. Climb this (crux) to a nice crack above, then slightly left to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.9/5.10) Continue up a nice hand crack to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a bolt, which protects a reachy move (maybe height dependant?) then up & left to a bolted anchor.

P4: (5.10-) Work up and right through a crack, then left to a bolt, then up to a bolted belay.

Location

Starts about the middle, at a couple bolts going up & left to the limestone band. The first belay bolts are visible from just down & left of the start of the route.

Protection

A few small cams, doubles through #3 camalot, slings & a couple quickdraws.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
Awesome... a bit of everything packed into a relatively short wall. First few moves off the ground are surprisingly sporty, second pitch is stellar, third great as well with splitter crack. Three stars for varied movements, consistently great exposure, and memorable cruxes. Single rack up to BD #2 is plenty, and a single 70-m will get you down. Aug 29, 2016
SummitSender
  5.10-
SummitSender  
  5.10-
Warning Beta Info:
Hardest section is 10- at the hardest! Rest is 5.6 - 5.9
Single rack - red c3 to #3 double rack was way too much gear
1 70 meter
link 1&2 3&4 otherwise ur climbing 4 tiny pitches 15-35 feet each...
After the 4th pitch anchor is a huge bee hive up in crack so be warned. Apr 8, 2016
dsmit
Flagstaff, Az
 
dsmit   Flagstaff, Az
 
Only one 70 meter rope needed for the rappels. Feb 5, 2015
E Kennedy  
 
Beautiful route, but it gets a lot of sun. P2 is definitely the crux and most sustained. The bolt-protected moves on P3 are not a problem if you're short, as there are many reasonable options to pull pass the bulge. Apr 26, 2014