Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dry Creek Spire

Black Arrow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Creek Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Ending, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Burcham, Zack Bastow
Page Views: 879 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mike on Jul 11, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.

Location

Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.

Protection

Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???

Description

P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.

Location

Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.

Protection

Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
The most burly wide climbing is indeed off the deck in the flared v-slot. I placed the #6 here, mostly just to unburden myself. I don't really think it's necessary, as it looked like smaller gear may work here too, and the slot is pretty secure. We linked pitch 1 and 2, which worked fine as long as everything is slung long and not much gear is placed in the chimney of pitch 2. It's 35m to the ground from the anchors on pitch 2. The 3rd pitch is all bolts, no gear needed. I think the route is more like 200' long. This faces southwest, and gets sun much later than Black Arrow. Jan 27, 2016
Steve Skelton
Lyttelton, New Zealand
Steve Skelton   Lyttelton, New Zealand
The first pitch made me puke! Serious thrutching and harder than anything on Black Arrow. Gotta hate it to love it. Jan 18, 2013