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General Patton's Arete

V2-3 PG13, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 28 votes
FA: Troob
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Smugglers' Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Patton Boulder
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Description

Start up the left angling arete on the nice right edge. After you're halfway there, you can reach around the corner and finish up on the the low angle face or continue working up the arete proper, gaining the obvious finishing horn and topping out.

The down climb on the opposite, back corner of the boulder might be a little scary for some. It's down low angle face with crimps and left hand side pulls galore. I figure I'd mention it for anyone who may be nervous.

If I screwed up the route name, let me know and I'll update it. New England Bouldering calls this V3.

Location

Follow the hiking path just north of Nemesis. Scramble up some rocks, passing the ledge where Around the Outside and Upstairs Downstairs is. Just above those two climbs is the large boulder this route lives on. Walk around to the back until you see the beautiful, obvious arete.

Protection

A pad would be enough, but two would be nicer. Attentive spotter to keep the climber from landing on the sloping rock behind.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The crux is right before the top
[Hide Photo] The crux is right before the top
Lily heading up the fun arete
[Hide Photo] Lily heading up the fun arete

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bill patton
V4- R
[Hide Comment] no way this thing is V1. I think V4 is closer - but maybe that is just fear talking. The down is tricky- head off the back side and then down.
Can't remember who the fa was by - not me though. Aug 13, 2012
rogerk klinger
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] Bill,
IIRC, Troob got the first ascent, and named it in your honor because you showed it to him. Aug 13, 2012
Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
 
[Hide Comment] Bill, great to see you snooping around here finally! Do you recall the face immediately to the left of this? Pat Tracey, you and I were working on it some years ago, but to my knowledge no one sent. Has it since been sent? If so, it would be a SCREAMING highball! Aug 13, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
[Hide Comment] Hopefully Bill will shed some more light on the exact details, but Bill told me that the line directly to the left (and over the heinous landing) goes at about v7, but that to his knowledge it had only been toproped.

Further left is another highball that begins as a sit start that goes at about v4. There might be another line left of this as well. If I get back up there at some point soon, I'll try to get some pics and details. Sep 12, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  V3
[Hide Comment] I updated this to show the grade given by the New England Bouldering guidebook... but I personally think it was light. To each their own. :) I've also updated the first ascensionist. Oct 9, 2013
bill patton
V4- R
[Hide Comment] The original atete climb as it was shown to me keeps your right hand on the arete and left hand on a series of edges on the face. This makes for a tricky / dicey move at the very top to gain the very sharp top edge. This was the original send line. Staying to the right of the arete is much easier and makes for a v2 style nice highball. Try both variations :-) Apr 24, 2021
will savoy
  V1-2 PG13
[Hide Comment] Jugs all the way. It says v2, feels more like v1. Good feet Jun 5, 2023
Stephen Russo
  V1 PG13
[Hide Comment] Beta:
instagram.com/reel/DPi4xAmk… Oct 8, 2025