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Routes in Lunch Box Wall

Dance of the Spam Patty S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lunch Lady Land S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waitress in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 69 ft
FA: Mike Cronin (Inspired by The Replacements)
Page Views: 52 total, 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 11, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

One of the underdogs of Big Picture Gully, this stellar climb is often overlooked because of its funky location and the fact that everyone wants to prove they can onsight or redpoint Everything's Big in Texas. DO THIS ROUTE! It has its own special character that can't be found in most Spearfish Canyon routes of this grade.

"Oh sure, a 5.10c that's mostly slab, this should be a cake walk." WRONG! This waitress happens to be a bitch, and if you don't give her the proper respect (and a good tip...of your shoes) the only thing that she'll be handing you is your ass between two slices of rye.

The route starts with a wild set of bouldery moves that will have even the finest of diners wanting the check before desert is served. When the main course comes, better stay on your toes because the slab and arete sections get funky and wears on your arms in ways you can't possibly imagine. The crux is towards the end as a series of thought proking moves begs the question, "how can something that looked so easy from the ground get so hard at the last bolt?"

This is a climb that you can sink your teeth into, even if you can't get your hands and feet to stay where you need them to be.

Location

The route is on the left-most side of the wall. It is the easiest of the three to notice from the trail since it is has an obvious slab and arete. However, it might be a pain in the butt to get to since it is located up a steep grade which sometimes requires a bit of bushwaking and skree navigation. Don't skip this route, lunch is an essential meal and this is one of the more essential 5.10c climbs one should try before moving onto bigger meals.

Protection

This route has eight bolts and open shut anchors. Use a short quickdraw at the first bolt to keep your butt off the ground. Stick-clipping is not a must, but a good idea since the start is a bit tricky. The last bolt is in a strange location around the corner of the arete. Bring a longer draw to use at the last bolt to elimate rope drag.

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