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Routes in Tanager Face

A Touch of Gray S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beam Me Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Brightly Colored Males T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lifelong Affliction T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rough Cut T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veracity T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Welch, Savage 1987
Page Views: 712 total, 9/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 11, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

P1 5.8+ -- Climb the beginning of Brightly Colored Males. After 5 feet of corner climbing, move left towards a left rising crack and follow this to the top.

Location

Same start as Brightly Colored Males

Protection

Fixed anchor at top

Photos

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Gotta disagree big time with Kevin on this.

CAUTION - beta follows.

I "walked into" the lower part of the crack as he suggests, and it was awkward, off-balance, and super reachy (nb - I have probably 6" less wingspan than him). Ended up moving leftwards to the crack in what could be be called an unexpected dynamic move. Plus, the gear for this, if you can get it, is placed blindly. The real gear is behind you in the corner and the fall backwards would be ugly. On the second lap, I used the lower crack for fingers and it was a bit of a grunt but super straightforward. The wider upper part of the crack was also very obvious, with great fingerlocks and jams, right foot stabbed in the crack at every move; I can't imagine trying to do that any other way. Felt like 5.6 at most. Aug 10, 2016
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
-- Beta alert -- if you try climbing this as a fingers/hands crack, jamming, it will feel impossible. The trick is to use the crack for your feet, under-clinging and side-pulling it with your hands. You basically walk the crack. It's still tough, but closer to the 5.8 grade than say 5.10 Oct 7, 2015
NESteve
Lake Placid, NY
NESteve   Lake Placid, NY
Great pitch at least the falls are clean! Oct 7, 2015
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
  5.9+
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
  5.9+
This may be the hardest 5.8 route I've ever climbed. The climbing is delicate and burley. It's really a very interesting climb. Make sure you are carful with the first few moves into the crack the fall back into the corner could be pretty painful.

Do not under estimate this thing but do get on it! Jul 13, 2015