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Routes in 3. Grunge Wall

Carpet Path T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleep in the Dry Spot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Alan Pilgrim, Chris Marks, and Pete Henden
Page Views: 893 total · 11/month
Shared By: Peter Jackson on Jul 10, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Route info

When I submitted this project to the database, I didn't get the screen to fill in a description!

This route starts near the end of the Grunge Wall and climbs a clean, grey-ish section of chunky rock. The holds are fantastic, and worth climbing just to experience them.

The pro is a rack of nuts and cams up to a #.75 Camelot. The first available pro is about 15' from the deck: there's a through-flake you can thread. Climb past this and several other interesting holds (don't miss the suitcase handle) to a solid two bolt anchor.

Photos

Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
Tom, Tom, Tom... : )
Lead this/climbed this for the first time today. The first piece was a little run out from the ground, but even though it felt like I was running out certain sections, in retrospect(looking down from the bolts) it was quite well, and evenly, sewn up on gear.

Fun climb, I think it would be good for a newer climber, maybe not the absolute beginner climber.

I would not/did not trust either natural thread. Both sounded wrong, and I ended up pushing on them not pulling.

Similarly, the top/last part below the little roof was wet, but it was easy to stay clear of it/climb around it. Jul 8, 2017
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
I didn't think the gear was that great for this. The book calls Carpet Path "a good beginner lead" and says for this one "Gear is reasonable". I think both of those are overstated. So that either says something about me or about the book.

The first thread is high, and it sucks. That flake sounds terrible and I don't believe it would hold a fall. Luckily the next piece of gear is only another 5' further. I was able to sew this climb up, but with many questionable pieces in-between good placements. 9-pieces and 2-threads in 75' of climbing. Also I used up to (2) #2's. One (of these #2's) was a good placement, and another one was like a wet sock in a pile of dirt.

That being said I liked the climb. The top was wet, wasn't an issue though. Oct 13, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
Ah...Two natural threads, one is the first pro just to the right of the old bolt remnant, the 2nd further up and easier to "find". Jul 27, 2014