PRINT: Rock Climb Heavenly Scoops, South Platte

Heavenly Scoops

5.6, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Emily Conway and Ben Schmitt, 2011
Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Water Sculpt Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 Details

For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.

From Daniel H Bryant: the 2022 Elevenmile Canyon closures that were extended but do not include climbing areas.

Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.

Description

Both routes on this wall were bolted with the mindset that these would be great beginner leads, and Heavenly Scoops achieves this purpose and offers an amazing amount of varied climbing to boot! Start up the low angle slab on the right side of the wall, climbing past great slab moves with good holds which yields a fantastic section of water sculpted jugs. Head up the no hands slab to a well protected high crux, which deposits you into a runnel that leads to anchors in a large bathtub.

Location

This is the right line of bolts up the water pods.

Protection

10 bolts, rappel anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice 5.6 with lots of scoops to play in.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brandon A

Trad police has unscrewed all but two bolt hangers on this route, including one on the anchor. The other one is about halfway up. Threads look intact, so I'm sure an intrepid do-gooder could restore the route the its former capacity. Am I in the dark concerning the ethos on this wall? Gear placements were few and far between, making this a good candidate for a sport route.

In the meantime, fear not! This route can be toproped from Kalamis Aqua to the left and 20 feet up. Clip a couple directionals on the anchor and pity bolt halfway up to minimize your swing.

Use a 70m rope. May 28, 2023