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Routes in Wasootch Tower

North Ridge of Wasootch Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,635 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jul 10, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description [Suggest Change]

Approach: 1 hour
Descent: 1.5 hours
Climb: 3 - 7 hours (depending on routefinding skills)
Sun Exposure: Most of the day

A scrambling route with 5.7 climbing mixed into it. This climb is a mixture of long runout very easy sections and short protected crux sections. Where you'd want gear, there is usually a fixed pin or bolt. The routefinding can be problematic, so be prepared for wandering up the path of least resistance and to take longer than you'd expect.

P1 60+m, 5.5: Romp up the easy gully and sling trees, shrubs, or try and find gear somewhere. Trend left and follow the face or huge left facing dihedral up to the ridgeline (climbers left). Belay at a nice new two bolt anchor right on the ridgecrest where you would turn the corner below a bolted jenga block face (out of view until you round the crest).

P2 20m, 5.7: Climb steep jenga block holds for several moves (5.7) to a bolt, then a pin (hidden), and a third bolt. End at a two bolt belay on a nice ramp with a weird pin down right 15 feet (offroute?)

P3 30m, 5.5: Left up the ramp, climb a short low angle face to the top of the ridgecrest. Belay at a single ring pin on the crest.

P4 50m, 5.5: Downclimb to a tree in the gully and head up and across the big gully following the easiest route. Sling the big tree halfway across and climb up the "pimple" crack at the rockband to gain a grassy ledge system. Build a crappy belay somewhere.

P5 50m, 5.5: 5.5 no pins needed version, walk down right and climb back up and left a series of steps above the belay. Keep scrambling up to another ledge system and then traverse down and right to an easy right facing dihedral. Basically, just walk down and right, then climb up left to easy ground twice. Belay over the ridge crest at a big tree.

P5 50+m, 5.7 alternate version: original route? Climb straight up over the rockband from the belay (5.6, poor gear) and head up to the black right facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral (5.7 runout no gear or place a pin somewhere). Belay at a tree on the ridgecrest. This skips the scrambling P6.

P6 30m, 4th: Scramble left up scree / ridge to a nice shiny bolt and pin anchor that marks the start of the final crux pitch.

P7 60m: Climb the solid arete and clip a shiny bolt. Continue up a right facing dihedral with good gear. Belay anywhere on the summit ridge.

P8 4th: Some will just unrope and scrample the ridge to the football field of grass near the summit, others will stay roped up for this ridge. The rock sucks here so be careful.

The summit has a black tube register on it under the summit cairn. Be careful, the glue has failed on one end cap of the tube, so don't let it fall apart on you.

Location [Suggest Change]

Approach: From the Wasootch Creek parking lot look upcreek towards Wasootch Tower, which is the obvious tower. Walk along creekbed towards it, passing the Wasootch Slabs sport climbing areas. Take the very obvious gully leading to the Tower and follow a well defined climbers trail, staying left. Once you get just below the bowl where the route starts you have two options. Go up climbers left along the forested hillside to where the trees end and traverse out right onto the route (less loose rock scrambling this way and a faint trail exists) OR head straight up the bowl and rope up whenever you feel the need (loose and somewhat scary).

Descent: From just below the main summit, locate the two bolt anchor about 3 feet from the cliff edge near a bush and two 60m ropes will allow 1 rap off to the donkey trail descent. Watch out for a stuck rope knot on a horn right at the lip. Best to position the knot over the lip to avoid this. I've heard there is an intermediate anchor for 2 single rope raps, but I didn't notice it (nor was I looking for it though). Follow the very defined climbers trail down the hillside. This brings you down one gully over from where you came up to Wasootch Tower and rejoins the approach gully just before the creekbed.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams to 3" (#3 camalot), small - medium nuts, pins (knifeblads, angles, lost arrows).

Without pins, some of the gear belays are terrible, but often the leader can sit on the other side of a ridge and perform a good "sit belay". The hard (5.7) sections both have a bolted belay right before them.

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