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Routes in Rodenstein

Abenteuerweg S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Edelweisskante (kante = arete) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Keltenpfad S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kroderplatte S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Neuer Zinnenweg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pfeilerkante S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regenkante S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schlaifhausener Kante S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sekundant S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spanische Zeiten S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: 1983
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 8, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

The start is a bit tough, so there's no shame in pre-clipping the high first bolt. As you can see by the spacing between bolts, the business is all concentrated between the first and the third bolt. Getting to the fourth bolt is also not very easy, but the difficulty really eases up after that. The climbs in this section are on very compact rock, which means that the pockets which abound at most of the other crags in the Frankenjura aren't quite as prevalent here. However, this climb has some cool, balancy moves on crimps, pockets and slopers. And the pockets aren't very friendly either, so try to resist the temptation to bury your fingers in them as deep as they'll go. Follow the 4 bolts to the anchor and sign the book at the top if you like.

Location

Kind of in the middle of the big, slightly less than vertical wall. Immediately right of Neuer Zinnenweg.

Protection

4 bolts + anchor

Photos

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