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Routes in Lean To Boulder

Pick Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secrets On A Stream S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swamp Thing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: John Long, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper 1999
Page Views: 1,269 total · 14/month
Shared By: steple on Jul 8, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start down low if the water allows. Climb up on pockets and be careful not to fall into the boulder behind you. Once you reach the arete higher up the climbing gets easier.

Location

Upstream end of Lean To Boulders.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchor. Spotter for the rock behind you.

Photos

John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
This route is probably 5.13. Because the route is in a river bed, the rock is absoultely diamond hard. Grat, powerful moves at the bottom. One of the best tech routes in the park. Aug 10, 2013
Fjurte Van Mjurgles  
5.11c/d
Who fluffs their own routes? I would say more like 11 c/d. Did it on a bet, not worth the hike in. Oct 30, 2013
Jason Milford
LA, CA
Jason Milford   LA, CA
... One of the first people to climb 5.12 in the country... Oct 30, 2013
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
The route is about two letter grades harder than Urban Struggle, the standard 5.12- in the park. Anyone who says this is 5.11 didn't do it. Not hard by modern standards but a great bouldery sequence on perfect rock. Dec 13, 2017

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