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Ohio Arts
5.12a,
Sport, 25 ft (8 m),
Avg: 1.5 from 34
votes
FA: Josh Thurston, J.J. 2004
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Climbing Area and a Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit
Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at
muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
The 3 bolt extension above edge a sketch. Enjoy the massive jugs at above the slab and figure out how to use them to establish yourself on the wall above. Some choose to bring up their belayer to get a better belay and stay off the slab below in case of a fall.
Location
A second pitch (or extension of) above Edge-a-Sketch
Protection
Pittsburgh, PA
All that said, I'd still advise a pass. It's just a super short, hard, not-very-interesting boulder problem. May 9, 2019