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East Pillar, east face
5.8 R,
Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
FA: unknown
New York
> Gunks
> Peterskill
> t. Mya to the E End
Description
On the "front side" of the pillar look for a steep crack in a left facing corner on the upper half of the face. The lower half is semi-blankish. The upper part is delightful jam & layback, while the lower part is serious (tricky and sparse gear), devious, and a bit reachy.
Location
The climb is directly above the trail. You can walk off on the trail to climber's right, it's about 50 yd to the end of the cliff.
Protection
Micro cams and ball nuts if you fancy leading this, then normal cams and big nuts on the upper crack. The TR anchor is easy enough if that's your choice.
[Hide Photo] This is NOT a recommendation to lead this route! There are a total of 5 pieces below me, and none of them will keep you off the ledge if you blow the crux.
[Hide Photo] East face of East Pillar